AFP - Italian designer Stefano Pilati received a standing ovation on Monday night as he presented his final collection for Yves Saint Laurent, in front of a star-studded audience at Paris Fashion Week. French actresses Catherine Deneuve and Isabelle Huppert were joined in the front row by American pop star Katy Perry – sporting bright blue hair – soul singer Alicia Keys, and actress Rosario Dawson, all cheering on the collection.
Pilati’s last autumn-winter look for YSL, which was announced alongside his departure last week, heavily featured blacks, with strong-shouldered jackets, leather-trimmed pants, and backless dresses made from fine metallic chain-mail. "I hope it’s sublime," whispered a fashion writer as the sound of heels clicking on a parquet floor marked the start of the show, with the house initials displayed in copper lettering at the end of the runway. The first model walked out in a black coat lined with leather, paired with short pants and vertiginous heels. A black bolero followed, worn over high-waisted pants. Several leather tunics, in bold green or red, featured mink accents at the shoulders. Trouser suits showcased prominent shoulders adorned with a flower motif, in white or violet against black. Chain mail dresses were knee-length, sleeveless in silvery pink with green collar and hem, or entirely green with simple straps crossing at the back. With sleek chignons and deep red glossy lipstick, other models strutted in metallic dresses with deep V-necks, one in pink with violet edging and short sleeves. Long gowns in black or white were slit high on the leg, either at the back or side, or at the front up to the knee.
The designer, dressed in a light-colored suit, gave a brief bow at the end of the show, raising one hand in a "V" for victory, marking the conclusion of an adventure with the house that began in 2004. Yves Saint Laurent has not yet named his successor, stating it will reveal the name of its new creative director in the coming weeks. Industry sources informed AFP late last month that Hedi Slimane, a former designer for Dior Homme admired by rock stars and his fashion peers alike, would take over at Saint Laurent. Slimane, who also worked at YSL in the late 1990s as head of menswear, would be returning to the fashion industry after several years away.