Drinking alcohol always requires some dishes to accompany it. So, what is the best dish to pair with fine wine? Around 1800 years ago, Bi Zhuo selected crabs, and this choice has since been recognized: "The crab claw is like golden liquid, the fermented mound is Penglai, one must drink fine wine, and get drunk under the moon on a high terrace." (Tang · Li Bai's "Drinking Alone Under the Moon") "Full plate of purple crabs and thousands of cups of wine." (Tang · Luo Yin's line, quoted from Song · Gao Sijun's "Crab Notes") "At this time in early autumn, the crabs are especially fat, I regret not getting drunk with you before parting." (Song · Ouyang Xiu's "Letter to Shengyu, Twenty-Fifth Brother") "Early crabs are fat enough to be recommended, village liquor turbid but can still be savored." (Song · Zhang Lei's "Boat Travel Trivial Matters") Such examples linking crabs and wine are countless. Not only that, many people view crabs as the top choice for drinking accompaniment, such as "Always admired the inner yellow marquis (crab), the flavor in front of the cup is first-class" (Zeng Wenqing), "Checked at the table, seafood lord (crab) is the outstanding one" (Jiao Hong). The connection between crabs and wine has become so tight that one thinks of eating crabs upon picking up a glass of wine. Song · Wang Yuanzhi's poem says, "Holding wine and singing wildly recalling crab claws," Su Shi's poem states, "Half shell containing yellow suitable for pairing with wine," opening the crab shell reveals a bright yellow color, and the desire for wine increases. A writer named Yang Weizhen from the Yuan Dynasty, skilled in poetry and writing, once went out to visit a friend, seeing the sky was about to darken, he had to dock his boat along the way. A wealthy family on the shore, respectful of scholars, upon hearing it was the renowned scholar Yang Weizhen, invited him home. Yang asked, "Do you have purple crabs and pure wine?" The host replied, "Yes." Thus they sat down at the banquet, ate countless crabs, drank wine joyfully, and composed a poem which was written immediately. It can be seen that having crabs and wine is the pursuit of many people. Having crabs and wine brings excitement and happiness: "Frosty oranges, sugared crabs, newly brewed wine is beautiful, drunk realizing all worldly matters cease." (Song · Su Shunqin's "Small Drink") "Left hand holding crab claw, raising a cup to the Milky Way." (Song · Qin Guan's "Drinking Poem") "Can take the master into the land of drunkenness, free the master from the city of sorrow." (Song · Yang Wanli's "Crab Wine Essay") "Since ancient times, those who hold wine and eat crabs are considered elegant people." (Song · Luo Yuan's "Heard Temple Clerk Feast Guests Sending Drunken Crabs Along with Poems Seen and Replied") "Excellent young masters, jade-like quality and gold-like appearance; kind and fond of me, pulling me into the land of drunkenness; chewing two snow-like crab claws, rinsing with dew-filled wine; this is sufficient, my joy never ends." (Song · Fang Yue's "Breaking Crab Four Lines") "Raising wine can forget the dust of the nine streets, crab claws in hand naturally exude elegance." (Qing · Zhang Wentao's "Eating Crabs Thanking Xiong Shi Zhi") Having crabs and wine forgets worries, forgets sorrows, invigorates spirit, elevates emotion, satisfies, brings joy, makes one feel like an elegant person of the world, and feels all worldly matters cease. Why is this? Wine is originally a forget-worry substance, an excitant; crabs are originally a delicacy, a joy-enhancing dish; when the two combine, it seems as if one enters a state of ecstasy, thus, present-world troubles are swept away, and temporary pleasures arise naturally. Eating crabs while enjoying wine is commonly seen worldwide, however, allowing both to combine on the dining table, eating Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs requires drinking wine, drinking wine requires eating crabs, and considering it an enjoyment, a pleasure, is a unique discovery and concept of the Chinese. Drinking wine requires accompanying dishes, crabs are extremely fresh and delicious, incomparable. Conversely, eating crabs also requires drinking wine, as crabs are cold in nature, cold and smelly, requiring wine to neutralize the cold and remove the fishy smell. Therefore, this combination is both reasonable and scientific, an optimal choice with intrinsic basis, and a contribution of China to global food culture.