21:36 Beyond the Qionghua Taoist Temple - Yangzhou does not belong to the Jiangnan region geographically, yet when it comes to Jiangnan culture, Yangzhou must not be overlooked. Typically, one should view the local night scenery in the evening. The urban area of Yangzhou is filled with rickshaws, which somewhat resembles Shaoxing. Riding a creaky rickshaw through the streets and alleys is quite amusing. Its greatest advantage is the ability to navigate narrow old districts, something motor vehicles cannot match.
21:00 Siwang Pavilion - To be continued, more pictures stored in space albums...
21:25 Dongguan Ancient Ferry (Grand Canal) - The rickshaw continues eastward into Caiyi Street and Dongguan Road, which were once the liveliest parts of old Yangzhou. Here are concentrated many old businesses, several grand residences of Qing Dynasty salt officials, and wealthy merchants. As night fell and the rickshaw took shortcuts, there was no time for a detailed look...
17:35 Runyang Bridge crossing the Yangtze River to reach Yangzhou (traveled 171 kilometers) - After wandering for a while in dim light, the rickshaw emerged from the encirclement of old houses, revealing a broad avenue ahead. Across the road stood a large paifang (archway) with flying eaves and intricate decorations, inscribed with "Dongguan Ancient Ferry." Behind the archway lay the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, its gurgling waters unceasing.
April 17, 2009, Friday, 22:00 Wenchang Pavilion - I originally thought that the Qionghua flower, favored by emperors, would be hidden deep within the mansions, rarely seen. Unexpectedly, Qionghua flowers were everywhere outside the Qionghua Taoist Temple. The rickshaw driver solemnly swore that these were indeed Qionghua flowers! With dim streetlights making it hard to discern their authenticity, I took several flash photographs for further study. Two rickshaw drivers patiently waited on the roadside. They were confident that the historical and cultural attractions of Yangzhou would deeply captivate every visitor.
Throughout dynasties, salt taxes have been a significant source of imperial revenue: during the Southern Song Dynasty, tax revenue exceeded eight-tenths from salt taxes; during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, it was said that "the salt revenue of the Two Huai regions surpasses all others under heaven." At that time, Yangzhou became a place where wealthy salt merchants gathered, fostering an atmosphere of prosperity and revelry. Many ambitious locals aspired to go to Yangzhou. Isn't there a saying, "With ten thousand strings of coins wrapped around my waist, I ride a crane to Yangzhou?" Yangzhou was once a great city... at least it used to be.
21:51 Former site of the Two Huai Salt Transportation Commissioner's Office - Unlike Suzhou and Hangzhou, this was my first visit to Yangzhou, feeling both fresh and unfamiliar. In the evening, we checked into Jinjiang Inn on Jiangyang Middle Road.
I initially wanted to try a traditional bathhouse to experience one of Yangzhou's famous "three knives" - foot trimming. However, everyone was already exhausted, so we returned to wash up and sleep... What wonders will we encounter upon waking in Yangzhou tomorrow morning?
South of Siwang Pavilion lies the Wenchang Pavilion. Its appearance somewhat resembles the Circular Mound Altar in Beijing's Temple of Heaven, with three circular tiers of eaves. The Wenchang Pavilion dates back to the Ming Dynasty and was originally built to honor Wenchang Dijun (God of Literature). It was later destroyed and rebuilt during the Qing Dynasty, remaining preserved to this day.
15:40 Suzhou Ring Expressway (20 kilometers later turning west onto the Ninghu Expressway)
17:45 Suburbs of Yangzhou - Yangzhou has long enjoyed a prestigious reputation, once being the coveted land of opulence and sophistication. Poems like "An old friend departs westward from Yellow Crane Tower, in the misty springtime he travels down to Yangzhou" and "Ten years of dreams in Yangzhou, earning me the shallow fame of a green house," refer to the past. But how much of that former splendor remains in today's Yangzhou?
Siwang Pavilion is a well-known historical landscape in Yangzhou, situated without walls right in the middle of the road. Its origins are debated between the Southern Song Dynasty and the Ming Dynasty, with no definitive conclusion reached after prolonged disputes. From documented records: since the Ming Dynasty, it has always been part of a school complex. During the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom Rebellion in the Qing Xianfeng period, it was used by the rebels as a lookout tower for military purposes. Later, it came to be known as Siwang Pavilion.
Around Siwang Pavilion, there are more restaurants, whereas near Wenchang Pavilion, shopping malls dominate. Nearby buildings are predominantly in a仿ancient style, maintaining overall harmony.
On our return journey along Wen Chang Central Road, passing by the former site of the Salt Transportation Commissioner's office, we still felt an air of grandeur. In ancient times, Yangzhou thrived due to the canal and flourished because of the salt industry. These Two Huai salt officials wielded immense power. They oversaw the operations of the Two Huai salt merchants, who in turn influenced the social customs of the Two Huai regions.
The foolish Emperor Yang of Sui, under the pretext of admiring the Qionghua flowers of Yangzhou, expended vast resources and labor to construct the Grand Canal. Once completed, his dynasty disintegrated. However, the Grand Canal connected major water systems such as the Qiantang River, Yangtze River, Huai River, Yellow River, and Hai River, bringing Yangzhou prolonged prosperity and wealth! During the Tang Dynasty, Yangzhou ranked second only to Chang'an and Luoyang. Even during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Yangzhou remained the premier state of Huainan!