Impressions of Henan (5) Shaolin Temple
Holy places have the opportunity to listen to the Dharma rain
There is no place in Shaolin that does not exude a heroic wind
After leaving the Pagoda Forest, we had lunch nearby, then followed the shaded path along the outer wall of the Pagoda Forest towards the world-renowned Shaolin Temple, which was nestled not far ahead within a dense forest.
In the 1980s, with the release of the movie "Shaolin Temple," more people came to know about Shaolin Temple, making both the temple and Shaolin Kung Fu popular worldwide.
We entered the Shaolin Temple through the western archway outside the mountain gate, known as the "Great Vehicle Holy Land."
As we approached, we saw a single-eaved hip roof building spanning three rooms. The front wall was proportionate, featuring two equally spaced round windows. A seventeen-step stone staircase made of blue stones led up to the entrance, presenting a vertical band design. On either side were paired side gates. Above the door hung a horizontal plaque inscribed with the three golden characters "Shaolin Temple" in black ink, personally written by Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty. The inscription was elegant and dignified. Two large stone lions flanked the entrance, adding an aura of solemnity and majesty.
Upon entering the courtyard, the first impression was one of vast spaciousness. How much are the tickets for Shaolin Temple? The stone-paved avenue leading forward was described as each step being a transformation and each step resembling a lotus flower. It is said that after Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment, he rose from his seat and walked north around the tree, practicing "viewing the tree while walking." At that time, each step resembled a lotus flower, totaling eighteen lotus flowers.
In Buddhism, the lotus symbolizes purity and cleanliness. My daughter sat cross-legged on the lotus, hands clasped together, smiling pleasantly, just as the Tang Dynasty poet Meng Haoran wrote: "Observe the purity of the lotus, and you will know the unpolluted heart." May the lotus bloom everywhere, hoping my daughter's heart remains like a lotus, allowing her and me, as her mother, to quietly and sincerely embrace the lotus amidst this serene and solemn Buddhist forest.
On both sides of the avenue were many ancient trees over a hundred years old. As the saying goes, "Old trees provide good shade," these ancient original trees at Shaolin must have recorded hundreds of years of memories with their rings.
Also lining both sides of the avenue were densely packed stone steles from various dynasties, surrounded by swirling mist and fragrant incense.
Behind the thousand-year-old ginkgo tree lay the first major hall upon entering, the Heavenly King Hall. With red walls and green tiles, it featured ridged eaves and colorful painted brackets, with bells hanging from its four corners. Inside the Heavenly King Hall stood statues of the Four Heavenly Kings, protectors of Buddhism, symbolizing favorable winds, harmonious rains, and prosperity.
Passing through the Heavenly King Hall from the west, we arrived at the largest building in the monastery, the Great Hero Hall.
Most significant Buddhist ceremonies at Shaolin Temple take place here. We happened to witness an extremely rare religious ceremony. The courtyard was filled with numerous monks, all dressed in full monastic robes and cassocks, each possessing extraordinary bearing.
In the center of the Great Hero Hall stood a statue of Sakyamuni giving sermons. To the left was the Medicine Buddha of the Eastern Pure Land, and to the right was Amitabha Buddha of the Western Paradise. Behind them was the Guanyin Bodhisattva on an island, holding a pure vase in her left hand, sprinkling compassionate dew across humanity to liberate beings from suffering.
At this moment, there weren't many tourists in the Shaolin Temple. However, the incense burner in front of the Great Hero Hall still emitted wisps of incense smoke. The incense in the shrine inside the Great Hero Hall shone with golden light; the thinnest stick was thicker than an arm, and the thickest was wider than a bowl's mouth, each about 1.2 meters long.
A group of tourists, led by a guide, arrived at the Great Hero Hall. I heard the guide introduce to the tourists: "Wishes made in front of this hall do not need to be repaid." "Only in front of this hall at the Shaolin Temple can worshippers burn yellow incense. There's a saying, 'You burned high incense in a past life,' referring to burning high incense here bringing good luck." "Burning high incense here can bless three generations: parents above, children below, and yourself." It was clear that the guide's introduction was persuasive, indeed, several tourists generously purchased yellow incense to burn.
My daughter thought otherwise and actually stood before the incense burner, posing as Guanyin, smiling as she looked at the worshippers.
On both sides of the Great Hero Hall stood the Bell Tower and Drum Tower respectively, four-storied structures, majestic and imposing. In the courtyard surrounded by the Great Hero Hall, Bell Tower, and Drum Tower, besides ancient trees, there were also three unique steles with over four hundred years of history exclusive to the Shaolin Temple.
The most famous stele was the merit stele erected by Li Shimin to thank the thirteen monks. The film "Shaolin Temple" was shot according to the text on this stele. On the back of the stele was a list of the titles and honors bestowed upon the thirteen monks by Li Shimin after they saved him when he was Prince Qin. One could still clearly see Li Shimin's personal signature. Records indicate that Li Shimin unprecedentedly issued an edict for the monks of Shaolin Temple to receive monthly stipends, a system that has continued until today, hence everyone says that Shaolin monks are like civil servants receiving national salaries!
The content on the second stele's front face is forgotten, but on its back was a painting of the tripartite unity of Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism, likely unique in the world. In the overall image, a benevolent-looking high monk represented Buddhism, but split down the middle revealed two elderly figures: a Confucian elder on the left and a Taoist patriarch on the right. The three merged into one, a perfect integration of three spirits.
The third stele was a symmetrical turtle-carried stele. These turtles were not ordinary tortoises but called bi xi, supposedly one of the nine sons of the Dragon King, also known as gui fu. They resemble tortoises and enjoy carrying heavy loads, year-round supporting stone steles, looking like diligent strongmen. It is said touching them brings good fortune. Therefore, the head, neck, and back of this large turtle were rubbed shiny by visitors.
My daughter said, "If bi xi carries me, I'll have good luck too!" Indeed, from its name bi xi, it is evident that it is full of "treasures."
It is said that this turtle is extraordinary, having lived for a thousand years, ranked among immortals, symbolizing auspiciousness and good fortune. Thus, touching the neck of the longevity turtle grants longevity, touching its head grants wisdom, and touching its teeth grants wealth. Fortunately, we all touched it for good luck!
Behind the turtle-carried stele was another rare artifact, a massive iron pot weighing over 1700 pounds, presumably used for cooking communal meals at Shaolin Temple. It is said that the spatula used for stir-frying would resemble a shovel. Stir-fry masters needed to possess at least two special skills: the inverted bell technique + the turtle breath technique. While cooking, the chef would hang upside down, and due to the smoky environment, they would need to hold their breath. Clearly, this large iron pot witnessed the prosperity of Shaolin Temple at the time.
To ascend the moon platform of the Great Hero Hall, our attention was drawn to the surrounding stone railings. They formed a corridor encircling the area, with columns adorned with seated lions and cloud motifs at the corners, making them very beautiful.
We prepared to head to the scripture repository behind the Great Hero Hall's moon platform from the west side. Suddenly, a young Shaolin monk, about ten years old, bald-headed and wearing monk robes, emerged from a side door, still looking quite childish.
Further back was the abbot's quarters, where the head monk of Shaolin Temple lived, managed daily affairs, and practiced. Visiting Shaolin Temple inevitably sparks interest in the Shaolin monks. Living on the same land as us yet in a different world, curiosity is natural. Additionally, the legendary Shaolin martial arts make them mysterious. Unfortunately, even reaching this point, Shaolin Temple remained mysterious to me.
Behind the abbot's quarters was a small hall housing a bronze statue of Bodhidharma. This pavilion was also known as the "Standing Snow Pavilion." Due to a religious ceremony, it was cordoned off, preventing closer inspection.
Behind the Standing Snow Pavilion was the last hall in the temple complex, also the place where Shaolin warrior monks practiced martial arts. It was said that due to years of practice, the ground bore uneven marks, clearly visible. Regrettably, we didn't get to see them this time, so we returned via the Standing Snow Pavilion.
At this moment, we noticed two monks engaged in quiet conversation in the courtyard. Soon, the sound of a mobile phone ringing broke the silence, showing that even this tranquil place couldn't escape worldly disturbances.
Exiting the Shaolin Temple's mountain gate, on the inner side of the eastern archway, four large characters were horizontally inscribed: "Ba Tuo's Founding." Few people now understand their meaning (after checking, Shaolin Temple was founded in the Northern Wei Dynasty in 495 AD by Emperor Xiaowen Yuan Hong to accommodate Indian monk Ba Tuo to spread Buddhism. Ba Tuo was well-versed in scriptures, residing long-term at Shaolin Temple translating Buddhist texts and spreading the Dharma, thus the inscription "Ba Tuo's Founding" on the eastern stone archway).
When entering Shaolin Temple, we came through the western archway "Great Vehicle Holy Land." At the time, I wondered why it wasn't titled "Martial Arts Holy Land" given Shaolin Martial Arts' renown. After exiting the temple, I finally understood - Shaolin Martial Arts are not merely martial arts but also embody the "Great Vehicle." Just this realization alone makes me, an ordinary person, marvel at the subtlety of Zen. Recording these thoughts:
An ancient renowned monastery, a symbol of Luoyang civilization, the ancestral court of Chan Buddhism. Shaolin's mountain gate, lotus-lined avenues, a sea of people. Red walls and black tiles, green balustrades and pavilions, people say Emperor Taizong once resided here. Recalling childhood, a single movie made Shaolin kung fu known to all.
Mount Song's tranquil beauty, dense pagoda forests, high monks still reside. Ancient steles weathered by time, faintly recalling Bodhidharma's crossing of the river on a reed. Suddenly looking back, under Mount Shaoshi, cries of vendors echo like drumbeats. Reflecting, who still sings the gentle morning song of tending sheep as the sun rises?