Mudwork Construction Specifications for Home Decoration
*Basic Requirements
The mudwork construction phase can only begin after the water and electricity pipelines have been arranged and passed inspection and measurement to avoid rework.
When tiling walls and floors in the kitchen and bathroom, appropriate methods must be used to prevent cement mortar from flowing into the drainage pipes.
Characteristics of mudwork engineering include wetness, dirtiness, and a large amount of cement, brick debris, and garbage. This has a significant impact on the construction site environment and company image. Therefore, every construction worker must ensure that after completing one section of work, they immediately clean up the garbage at the construction site. Cement mortar should be mixed on iron sheets.
Mudwork includes altering door and window positions, waterproofing treatment in the kitchen and bathroom, wrapping drain pipes, leveling the ground, and wall and floor tiling projects. The specific construction specifications are as follows:
*Altering Door and Window Positions
Ensure that the width of the door or window opening in the wall does not exceed (door panel width * (window panel) + door frame line * 2).
Use methods such as hanging lines, level rulers, and angle rulers to ensure that both sides of the door or window openings in the wall are perpendicular to the ground, and all corners are 90 degrees.
*Waterproofing Treatment Project
Clean the base layer, apply cement and sand mortar, wait until the cement is completely dry, then use Jinlong 911 polyurethane waterproof coating. Uniformly brush it onto the walls and floors.
The use of cement waterproofing agent must follow the ratio specified in the instructions. Generally, the ratio is cement: waterproofing agent: water = 1:1:20 (the function of the waterproofing agent is to expand when it encounters water).
*When wrapping drain pipes, minimize the number of wrapped pipes as much as possible. Ensure that the positive and negative angles are square and perpendicular to the ground. Pay special attention to not sealing the inspection ports on the drain pipes.
*For ground leveling, use a level ruler to adjust the level. Consider the design difference of ±, and pay attention to watering the ground for maintenance.
*Wall and Floor Tile Engineering
Inspect the wall and floor tiles entering the site by unpacking them to check if the material types and specifications meet the design requirements. Strictly check if there are any color differences in the same materials, carefully inspect for any damage or cracks, measure their width and diagonal to see if they are within the allowable deviation range (2MM), check for flatness, water absorption degree, and whether anti-stain treatment has been done. If quality issues are found, inform the owner in detail and ask the owner to choose to return the goods. If the owner insists on using them, the owner's signature approval is required.
When calculating tile usage, consider an actual usage rate of *6% loss.
Before tiling, check the straightness and surface flatness of each side, check if the positive corner is square. If it exceeds the allowable value, the base layer must be leveled with plaster before starting to tile.
Before tiling, fully consider the pressing direction of the tiles at the negative corners. It is required that from the angle of entry, no tile seams are visible. Generally, start tiling the opposite side first upon entering, then proceed with the surfaces, tiling the whole boards first, then the areas around the drain pipes and the positive corners, right angles.
When tiling, first determine the height of the waistline (generally around 1M. It is generally required that the waistline is below the switch and will not be obscured by cabinets, ceilings, etc.).
In the bathroom, tile the waistline; in the kitchen, tile decorative tiles instead of a waistline. One or two decorative tiles are sufficient.
Before tiling glazed tiles, they must be soaked in water sufficiently to maintain a secure bond when attaching the tiles: At the same time, when attaching tiles, a suitable thickness of glaze ash should be applied to the wall tiles, and they should be hammered flat with a rubber hammer to ensure that all four corners have cement, preventing hollow drumming of the wall tiles.
When tiling wall tiles, vertical lines and horizontal lines must be hung to ensure the verticality of the wall tiles, surface flatness, and that the longitudinal and transverse tile seams are perpendicular and aligned.
At the positive corners, the original edges of the tiles must be ground at a 45-degree angle and joined together to ensure a good fit at the intersection of the two tiles forming a 90-degree angle, ensuring full cement filling without chipped corners or hollow angles, and no sharp edges.
At the turning corners, if the non-whole tile width is less than 50MM, two non-whole tiles should be used to replace the whole tiles and non-whole tiles, and the two non-whole tiles should be separated and attached to the edge of the two sides of the wall to ensure a good visual effect.
When tiling wall and floor tiles, attention should be paid to the pressing direction, and the wall tiles must press the floor tiles.
When tiling the kitchen and bathroom floor tiles, an appropriate slope should be provided (slope of 6-8MM) to ensure that residual water on the ground can flow out through the drain without accumulating. The balcony slope is 8-15MM (if not sealed)
When tiling floor tiles, first consider where to start tiling to make it both aesthetically pleasing and minimize tile wastage. Secondly, when pulling horizontal lines longitudinally and transversely, ensure that the highest point of the room has 20MM of cement mortar. At the same time, sweep the ground and wet it before tiling to prevent the floor tiles from lifting.
When tiling floor tiles, mix coarse sand and cement at a ratio of 3:1 with an appropriate amount of water until it reaches a state where it can be tightly twisted but easily scattered. Then level the board and apply a layer of glaze ash on the floor tiles for attachment, tapping them with a rubber hammer to ensure that all four corners align with the surrounding tile corners and ensure that the mortar is solid without any hollow drums (i.e., leveling).
Leave a gap of 1-2MM between floor tiles for better alignment and expansion. Wall art, fill the gaps two days after laying (white cement + 901 glue). There is a dedicated filler for right-angle pleasure.