Miscellaneous Talk about Japan
Column: Travelogue Added Time: December 7, 2010, 20:17:20 Source: admin Clicks: 30
This trip to Japan for tourism was not something I was particularly interested in. After all, among so many countries in the world, Chinese people are most familiar with Japan. Other countries like Nepal, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Thailand may be our neighbors, but when it comes to specifics, there is not much that everyone knows about them. For instance, we know little about Thailand's polygamy system or the Nepalese royal family massacre in 2001. However, when it comes to Japan, everyone from the elderly to children knows about it. Even in the remotest parts of China, where people may be less educated, they still know about this country and can easily mention words related to Japanese culture such as kimono, Mount Fuji, cherry blossoms, etc. This awareness has been shaped partly by war. A famous person once said that we think of our enemies more times in a day than we do our loved ones. Someone who has received preferential treatment might forget over time, but someone who has been severely beaten might never forget. People remember humiliation far more vividly than glory.
Perhaps because we were beaten, we have firmly remembered the small Japanese, this country with only 380,000 square kilometers (about the size of Yunnan Province in China), and a population of only 128 million. It is this small country that we have remembered, and almost every country and region in Asia has an impression of it. Because it wasn't just us who were invaded; they invaded too many countries. In Thailand, ordinary people curse the Japanese. In the Kanchanaburi area of Thailand, Japanese tour groups still dare not go there because the locals throw raw eggs at Japanese tourists when they see them. Also in South Korea, while there is animosity towards North Korea, hatred for the Japanese is even stronger. In Malaysia and Singapore, basically in all the Asian regions I've been to, there is no love for Japan. Without aggression and war, Japan should be the pride and representative of Easterners, but because of the war, everything changed flavor. Their capabilities, their strength, their excellence, all these things have become something else under the gaze of hatred, losing their original colors.
For one individual, you can call him a devil or a dwarf, but if he can beat everyone around him, and despite all the hatred, no one around him has the ability to move a finger against him, no matter what, this person should be very powerful and capable. And when you knock him down, he can quickly get up and become strong again. There are many things worth learning from this person. Just for this reason, I feel I should take a look, remove the lens of hatred, and see what the real, objective Japan looks like.
To make it easier for everyone to read, I have divided the content into several smaller sections, specifically including cherry blossoms, kimonos, geishas, Mount Fuji, mixed bathing, duck shops, ronins, personality, suicide, Japanese bachelors, Yamato, aging, ODA, each section can stand alone, and can be read in any order.
Cherry Blossoms
It happened to be the season of cherry blossoms blooming during my visit, everywhere was covered with clouds of cherry blossoms, truly beautiful. Originally, I thought cherry blossoms would be elegant like pear or apricot flowers, their beauty refined through cultural significance. After actually seeing them, I realized my thoughts were mistaken. The beauty of cherry blossoms doesn't lie in the single-petaled flowers or individual trees, but in the posture of its branches. When viewed as a forest or cluster, it becomes a scene, both graceful like a woman and grand like a man. This is the beauty of cherry blossoms. The blooming period of cherry blossoms is very short, only about a week, but in Japan, they can be seen everywhere, whether in cities or countryside. They don't necessarily form forests or clusters, but each cherry blossom tree reminds you that it is Japan's national flower, like a mark, very prominent and unique, becoming an inseparable part of the complete impression. Seeing cherry blossoms immediately brings to mind Japan, as if they belong nowhere else. Actually, Japan's cherry blossoms were transplanted from China in the eighth century, but like a child raised by another, it has become theirs, having little relation to us. Linking a country with a beautiful flower makes one naturally feel that the country is as elegant and beautiful as the flower, improving the impression significantly. After seeing Japan's cherry blossoms, I felt that every country needs a plant to represent itself, leaving a good and profound impression. Cherry blossoms are everywhere in Japan, and they are not all wild-growing either. Japan has specialized institutions researching and promoting cherry blossoms. It is said that there are over thirty types of pink cherry blossoms and over twenty types of white ones.
Apart from cherry blossoms being distinctive, Japan's climate, culture, clothing, topography, and landscape are very similar to China's. Walking on the streets, you don't feel unfamiliar because the characters are very similar to Chinese ones, so you can roughly guess the meaning of shop signs on the roadside, such as Mahjong=Mahjong, Doll Shop=Doll Shop, Fireworks=Firecrackers, Hand Wash=Restroom/Bathroom, Stamp=Postage, etc., countless examples. Below, I will talk about some things that differ from China and can represent Japanese culture, such as geisha, Mount Fuji, mixed bathing, suicide, and kimono, etc.
Kimono
The kimono originates from the Tang Dynasty in China and was also introduced from China. We have long abandoned this style, evolving into the sleek and representative cheongsam. Unexpectedly, what we discarded took root and flourished elsewhere, lasting thousands of years, becoming a symbol of others and a representation of beauty. From East to West, I've seen many fashion shows, but none compare to the kimono in creating a strong impulse to buy one and wear it gracefully after bowing. If it weren't for the high price of kimonos, I would definitely buy several. However, prices in Japan are high, and kimono prices are even higher. Even local Japanese say kimonos are expensive, as a decent one costs tens of thousands of RMB, and a high-end one can reach millions. The tour guide mentioned seeing a kimono on display priced at one million USD, with a note saying it had already been sold. Therefore, apart from geisha and historical and cultural cities like Kyoto where a few people still wear kimonos, it's hard to see them elsewhere. Nevertheless, every Japanese woman gets a few chances to wear a kimono in her lifetime, and these occasions are always solemn ceremonies, such as the Coming-of-Age Ceremony held on January 8th each year, where those turning twenty must participate and wear formal and traditional attire. School principals and district leaders come to give speeches. Additionally, women wear kimonos at weddings and during Shinto rituals. The craftsmanship of making kimonos is very meticulous, requiring specialized school training, and the wearing method is strict. One rule is that the left lapel must cover the right, never the other way around (because the right covering the left is how the dead are dressed), and wearing a kimono is very complicated, involving several layers inside and out, needing help from several people to put it on. Moreover, after wearing a kimono, the collar tilts backward, revealing much of the neck when bowing, so women wearing kimonos must powder and makeup their necks. It's said that previously, the beauty of a woman was judged not by her face but by her neck, just as we used to judge by foot size. Furthermore, unmarried women and married women wear different kimonos. Unmarried women have longer sleeves that can reach the lower leg, while married women have shorter sleeves. The distinction between unmarried and married women exists in many places and eras, such as ancient Chinese women tying their hair up and Indian women marking their foreheads with vermilion, among others. What I find most interesting about kimonos is the pillow-like object worn at the waist. I originally thought it was decorative, but it turns out to be quite practical. It serves as a sash and a long pocket, a hiding place for valuable items in olden times. It combines utility with aesthetics, achieving both perfectly. Compared to the cheongsam, which is also beautiful and reveals curves elegantly, it suits slim people better, but fat people wearing it look terrible. Kimonos, however, are loose and fit both thin and heavy people, as the Tang Dynasty valued fullness as beauty, like Yang Guifei. Kimonos emphasize flatness rather than curves, requiring a flat front and back without protruding chests or buttocks. Women wearing kimonos appear gentle and pretty because they cannot make large movements or take big steps. Thus, apart from geisha, few people wear them daily.
Geisha
Mentioning geisha touches on Japan's soft spot. Like a person, no matter how strong, has his weak point, Japan's tears and sufferings are embodied in geisha. Many literary works have described this aspect, so I won't elaborate. Here, I'll discuss the status of modern geisha. Geisha is one of the representatives of Japanese culture, but many common people misunderstand geisha. In fact, geisha are not prostitutes; they sell art, not themselves. The "art" of geisha refers to possessing genuine talent and captivating others with their skills. Becoming a popular geisha is not easy. Modern geisha are now rare, mostly passed down from mother to daughter, with elders in the family having worked in this profession. Being a geisha today is tough; girls start at age ten, learning tea ceremony, calligraphy, instruments, dance, etiquette, etc. They cannot wear regular clothes but must wear kimonos and wooden sandals. Their hairstyles require special arrangements, usually maintained for about a week, during which they cannot wash their hair. When sleeping, they cannot use pillows but need a narrow, hard wooden support to keep their necks off the bed to prevent their hair from touching and getting messy. From playing taiko drums to shamisen, singing contemporary to ancient tunes, performing modern to classical dances. Additionally, students often practice outdoors in the cold until their fingers bleed and their voices are hoarse. Tea ceremony, pouring wine, walking, sitting posture, and conversation are essential courses. They usually have only two days off per month and often work late into the night, leading to insufficient sleep and fatigue. They are not allowed to make phone calls or watch TV, must obey elders' orders at all times, and have no personal time or privacy. Typically, all aspects of a geisha's life are taken care of by the geisha house, and trivial tasks are served by apprentice geisha. Most geisha endure bullying from madams and senior geisha during their training, and resistance is not allowed. This can also be considered a form of training for apprentices. Apprentice geisha undergo a ceremony at age eighteen to officially become geisha. Formal geisha, after long and rigorous training, win guests over with their talents and grace even if they lack striking appearances. No wonder there's a saying in the geisha world: "As long as there are three strings left, there's no worry about food." Geisha performance fees are generally calculated by time. In the past, incense was used to measure time, burning one stick counted as one session, and each session was called "one flower." Now, it's calculated by the hour. Geisha earn high incomes, charging about 30,000 yen per hour (approximately 210 RMB), accompanying guests for socializing. After training, geisha mainly interact with political elites and celebrities, but contrary to the general Chinese understanding, geisha are not prostitutes. They only accompany guests for conversation and do not sell themselves. However, due to frequent interactions, some may develop affections. If multiple admirers emerge, bidding occurs. The madam sets a price, and whoever can meet it can hold a ceremony with her. She invites her sisters, and he invites his friends and competitors to attend the banquet. They spend the night together, but after the first night, they go their separate ways. She continues as a geisha, and he returns to his family life. Every July, Japan selects the most popular geisha of the year like a beauty pageant, and her posters are plastered throughout the streets. Overall, modern geisha are somewhat akin to modern celebrities but enjoy less freedom.
Mount Fuji
After discussing geisha, let's talk about another representative of Japanese culture, Mount Fuji. Just as we refer to the Yangtze and Yellow Rivers as "mother rivers," the Japanese call Mount Fuji "Fuji," "Fujisan," or "God Mountain." Japanese people aspire to visit Mount Fuji at least once in their lifetime. It is called "God Mountain" for two reasons: first, it was discovered by Buddhist monks, giving it religious significance; second, Mount Fuji is indeed extraordinary. Most mountains are part of ranges, but Mount Fuji stands alone, surrounded by black mountains. Only Fuji (FUJI), this green mountain peak capped with snow, towers majestically among the black mountains, tall and conspicuous, ethereal and transcendent, standing out uniquely. At a glance, it appears like a white swan among crows, a miracle of nature. Additionally, the mountain has a magical quality—it appears and disappears frequently, and most of the year, its full view is obscured. Due to its sacredness, environmentally conscious Japanese people protect it fervently. There are climbing seasons in summer and winter, and climbing requires permits. Mount Fuji is an active volcano that erupted twice to form its current shape. Since it is volcanic, the surrounding hot springs are rich in organic elements, perfect for soaking.
Mixed Bathing
Speaking of hot springs, let's talk about the Japanese tradition of mixed bathing, where families bathe together regardless of gender or age—grandparents, parents, and children all together. This is a long-standing tradition in Japan, but in the early 20th century, they realized that other countries bathe separately by gender, considering their own practices primitive and uncivilized. Thus, in 1912, legislation was passed to prohibit mixed bathing. However, traditions are powerful, and in some remote areas today, this custom still exists. Some hotels offer mixed baths but schedule them at different times. Additionally, many elderly people visit these baths. In families, there is still the habit of daughters washing their fathers' backs, regardless of the daughter's age. In the hotel we stayed at, the staff cleaning both the men's and women's baths were all female. Therefore, the tour guide advised that if men saw women cleaning the bath area, they should not panic or feel shy, as this is a unique Japanese custom and tradition.
Japanese people love soaking in hot springs, eating fish, and drinking tea. Due to their healthy lifestyle habits, Japanese people live long lives. The average male lifespan is over 70 years, and the average female lifespan is over 80 years. There are 25,000 people over 100 years old, mostly women.
Japanese Women, Duck Shops, Ronin
Japanese women live long lives but have low social status. It is said that Mount Fuji did not allow women to climb it thirty years ago, as Japanese men believed women would defile this holy mountain. Ironically, the first person to climb it was not a Japanese woman but a British female mountaineer. The low status of Japanese women persists today, evident in certain details of life. In Japanese cuisine, there is a dish called "shiryou-mori," where a woman's body is used as a serving platter, placing dishes on her naked body. Her breasts are adorned with cream puffs resembling a beautiful bra, frogfish placed on the heart for strength, flag money aiding digestion placed on the abdomen, and eel money enhancing sexual ability placed on the genitals. The woman lying there as a utensil must be a virgin, youthful, beautiful, and well-figured. In the 21st century, the use of women as tools in such a disrespectful manner is exceedingly rare. The low social status of Japanese women is closely related to economic income. Many Japanese women stop working after marriage and fewer work after having children. Over 99% of women stay home to take care of children and do housework. Husbands returning home after work is considered a sign of incompetence, so Japanese men typically do not go home after work. They can drink and entertain outside, with most leaving home at six in the morning and returning at midnight. Japanese women are lonely and obsessed with idols. It is said that all attendees at celebrity concerts are women. They adore South Korean star Bae Yong-joon, whose advertisements cost hundreds of millions of RMB. Thousands welcomed him at the airport when he visited Japan. Among his fans, a significant portion are middle-aged women and elderly grandmothers, some viewing Bae Yong-joon as their son. This is partly due to loneliness and perhaps the imbalance of the male-to-female ratio in Tokyo (8:10). Duck shops are very popular in Japan, with Kabukicho in Shinjuku being the red-light district, offering unimaginable services. A bottle of wine costs 70,000-100,000 RMB, and it is said that from 6 PM to midnight, merely chatting companionship costs 200,000-300,000 RMB. Some male tourists heard about earning 200,000-300,000 RMB in a few hours and joked about staying to find jobs, scaring the tour guide into collecting their passports. Duck shop workers earn high incomes because they are a special group. Generally, Japanese people do not earn such extravagant salaries. Apart from wages, their main income comes from bonuses, called "flower red," with taxes and national insurance, pension, provident fund (Hong Kong deducts 5%, Japan deducts 6%, civil servants deduct 9%) deducted, leaving little after deductions. For example, newly graduated university students, after various deductions, receive approximately 10,000 RMB. Japanese men, when single, spend all they earn, but after marriage, they save 100% of their income, with the average household savings being 100,000 USD. Japan's best period was the mid-1980s, when the stock market reached over 39,000 points,