The Laughter and Tears of Thai Ladyboys
When the plane arrived in Bangkok, Thailand at midnight, Thailand implements a visa on arrival. In the Suvarnabhumi Airport waiting hall, there were people of all races - black, white, yellow - queuing up for visas. Bangkok truly lives up to its reputation as an international metropolis. Among these people, not only were their skin colors different, but their clothing was also varied, representing all seasons, though summer attire was most common. We, knowing the hot climate here, had prepared by removing our down jackets and changing into sweaters. Still, we looked somewhat clumsy compared to the locals who wore tank tops, shorts, and flip-flops, with skin clearly tanned by the sun. Compared to them, we stood out like ducks among chickens.
After completing the visa process, when we left the waiting hall and boarded the bus that greeted us, unexpectedly, Thai ladies put flower garlands around each of our necks and greeted everyone with hands clasped together saying "SOWALICA" (the highest Thai courtesy). This immediately gave us a good impression of Thailand, clearly showing the government's support and importance placed on tourism.
On the bus, a male and female tour guide came over. They called the men in our group "Lao Mama" or PP, Big P, while we women were called Crystal Crystal, Water Watery, and Water Drydry according to our ages. Then they exchanged Baht for each of us at a rate of 1:3.9. However, later we found out that Renminbi is equally accepted here, even more so, whether in large stores or small vendors, at a rate of 1:4.3. The male guide called us young women Crystal Crystal, so we called him Wang Pipi.
Even though we hadn't left Asia yet, Southeast Asia still belongs to the Han cultural circle, but once here, everything was different from home. On the ground, in the sky, on the streets, it truly felt like we were in a foreign land. The language and writing had changed too. If there weren't so many other domestic tour groups around, you would really feel how strange this place is. Love is like a flower; the dense coconut groves, oddly shaped and foul-smelling durians, dark faces, worm-like characters similar to Arabic, and the large groups of white tourists all indicated this was another place. Buddhism, which we are familiar with, here the Buddha statues became thinner, with high pointed towers on their heads, some with noses curled like elephant trunks. Apart from the color of the cassocks being golden yellow, all other details were different, truly validating what a certain philosopher said: God is created by humans, reflecting back on themselves.
Thailand is a country steeped in Buddhist atmosphere. On the streets, one can often see offering platforms about 1.5 meters high and 1 meter wide, not only in public places like hotels and shops, but also more so in front of schools and government institutions. According to the guide, this is not only a custom but also a legal requirement. As much as incense offerings, portraits of the current king, King Rama IX, can be seen everywhere. Monarchy and religion have special status here. Especially Buddhism, from the ruling class to the common people, both in terms of infrastructure and spiritual level, the influence of Buddhism can be seen everywhere. For example, the common greeting among Thai people is not the Eastern-style handshake or bow, but rather the monk-like gesture of placing hands together. Just like during the Jin Dynasty in China when Buddhism was prevalent and everyone greeted each other with "Amitabha," all Thai men must serve in the military once in their life, but they must also enter the monastery once. Being a monk can last from 7-10 days to a lifetime, after which it becomes very casual, able to enter and leave the monastery at any time, drink alcohol, eat meat, and go to bars, as long as no one reports them and the police don't find out. Once discovered by the police, they will be forcibly disrobed and cannot re-enter the monastery again. Despite this, there are still 300,000 monks in Thailand.
Thailand is a country with a population of 60 million and a history of over 700 years, having been ruled by the Khmer for over 200 years before. It didn't have its own script until nine kings appeared in history, the most influential being King Rama V. Because King Rama V studied in Europe, he absorbed advanced democratic ideas and, like Sun Yat-sen in China, dedicated himself to benefiting the people and reforming his own country. He abolished slavery and did many things to benefit the common people, so the people loved him dearly. When worshiping Buddha or deities, people offer three sticks of incense, but when worshiping King Rama V, they offer five sticks. The current living king is King Rama IX, who has been on the throne for 60 years, with three daughters and one son. However, the crown prince hasn't been passed the throne yet because he has vices such as drinking, gambling, and prostitution. It is rumored that he forcibly defiled a famous female singer, so the Thai people dislike him. King Rama IX doesn't like him either. Among his three daughters, the eldest and youngest princesses are married, while the second princess is capable and hardworking. The people dislike the crown prince but love the second princess. King Rama IX planned to pass the throne to the second princess, but the crown prince found out and sent hitmen to kill her, who was saved by her bodyguards. King Rama IX then decided to pass the throne to his grandson when he turns three years and eight months old.
When we arrived, Thaksin had just stepped down, and domestic tourists had just been allowed to visit Thailand again. But since the political situation was still unstable, the guide repeatedly warned us not to leave the hotel alone at night because there might be robberies and such incidents. According to the guide, the day after the coup, there were soldiers every five steps and tanks every ten steps on the street, with very strict security measures. Thaksin was a talented politician who made many contributions to the country early on, but later engaged in corruption, selling the national telecommunications rights to Singapore and pocketing billions. King Rama IX always wanted to replace him but didn't dare to act rashly. This time, taking advantage of Thaksin's trip abroad, the coup was launched.
Thailand is rich in natural resources. Since pickled vegetables gained this smelly skill, pickled vegetables dreamed that roses would one day encounter trouble and come asking for help. One day, suddenly realizing his own stinky appearance, even if he became a superhero, what impression would roses have? Thus, he became quite troubled. Originally, pickled vegetables' skill wasn't as convenient as a weasel farting. There are seven provinces in total, four of which produce red, white, and blue sapphires, especially abundant in rubies. Therefore, the walls of the Grand Palace in Thailand are all made of rubies. At first, I didn't fully believe what the guide said, but upon seeing the magnificent and unparalleled Grand Palace with my own eyes, touching the walls painted with gold powder and inlaid with glass and gems, and seeing the enormous jade Buddha, I truly believed it all. I believe that no matter how splendid any building in the world is, none can match the beauty and rarity of the Grand Palace in Thailand. No wonder there are so many European tourists here, people of all races can be seen. Rarity is valuable, and people gather because of it, just like how flowers attract bees, stench attracts flies, and honey attracts children. People are drawn by the rare and precious.
What attracts numerous tourists to visit are not only the Grand Palace but also ladyboys. In terms of fame, Thailand's ladyboys are perhaps even more famous than the Grand Palace, originating from human curiosity. However, the only country in the world that produces ladyboys is indeed a very peculiar nation. If ladyboys appeared in a morally loose and open-minded country, it wouldn't be surprising, just like how homosexuality appears in America, where it doesn't seem particularly strange or jarring. But they surprisingly emerge in a Buddhist country known for abstinence, combining abstinence with indulgence, conservatism with peculiarity, a unique combination only visible in Thailand. Such opposing elements existing in the same place is a great spectacle, also illustrating that any matter taken to extremes will lead to its opposite. Like how a full moon wanes and a full container tips over, similar to how in China's Tang Dynasty, with its promiscuous social mores and open-minded thoughts, led to situations like Emperor Xuanzong marrying Yang Guifei, his son's wife. But by the Song Dynasty, it swung to extreme conservatism, leading to instances where a woman would cut off her arm if touched by a man, producing historically the most chaste widows. Buddhism believes that desire is the root of all evil, hence abstinence. But when abstinence forces human nature to be suppressed, it leads to its opposite. Therefore, when those breathtakingly beautiful ladyboys, considered the epitome of femininity, pay respects with their hands clasped together in the Buddhist manner, you're unsure if monsters have become Buddhas or saints have turned decadent. All this can be summarized by a local saying: see temples during the day, and spirits at night. And there's a folk saying: when visiting Thailand, implement the three 'guang' policies: strip naked, spend all your bullets, and get slapped by your wife when you return home. This shows Thailand's openness. In a Buddhist country known for abstinence, it reflects people's more open and casual thinking.
Thailand's nightlife is exceptionally colorful and diverse, almost unmatched in the world. Some places, although prohibited by the Thai government, were still brought to us by the guide. Initially, I didn't want to go, but standing on the street for two hours alone was even more boring, so I went along. Upon entering, it was like stepping into a cave of demons, a bizarre place filled with oddities. Although the Moulin Rouge falls into a similar category, I haven't seen it, but compared to Thailand's ladyboys, it lacks management and is more explicit. When Adam and Eve's fig leaves are torn away, everything is revealed: Adam's lower body can drum and blow up balloons, and Eve's body can house goldfish and shoot darts. Seen appreciatively, it seems like a stunt performance; viewed morally, it feels immoral, boring, and uncomfortable. Nevertheless, whatever the case, things under the sun are ultimately healthy and lasting, while things in the dark remain dark and hidden. After experiencing darkness, one values light even more.
We use the Chinese term 'ladyboy' to describe men transformed into women, and the word 'ladyboy' is indeed most appropriate. During the day, seeing these charming, angelic, and enchanting ladyboys, we like them or them too. But at night, when you see someone on stage whose upper body is female and lower body male, you lose direction, unsure of the place, time, or person. When you can't tell if the person in front of you is male or female, calling them anything other than 'ladyboy' seems impossible. This word 'ladyboy' is truly ingenious.
There are two types of ladyboys in Thailand: one type, except for lacking a uterus and unable to bear children, has all physiological structures altered into females, and their psychology has completely changed; the other type is incompletely transformed, half-male and half-female. However, regardless of the type, they are all artificially made, not naturally formed. They generally start injecting estrogen from the age of eleven or twelve, and as adults, they undergo surgeries like breast augmentation and reproductive organ changes. Their lifespans are short, health issues begin after forty, requiring medication to sustain life. Their group's philosophy is: living a thousand years ends in death, life may be short, but should be without regret. Although their income is considerable locally, they are still abnormal, not natural or normal people. While their bodies suffer damage, mentally, they are also in a humiliating and curious position. Yet, despite such survival conditions, the number of boys turning into ladyboys in Thailand isn't few but reaches 100,000, a significant group. Why is this? Becoming monks might be for faith, but becoming ladyboys is due to poverty and money-making. What does this group of 100,000 bring to Thailand? We'll discuss this later. Due to the prevalence of ladyboys, tall and pretty women in Thailand are easily mistaken for ladyboys, causing many jokes.
Out of a total population of 60 million, Thailand has 100,000 ladyboys and 300,000 monks. This disrupts the gender balance, so Thailand practices polygamy. Our two guides, one male and one female, the female guide in her forties, whose husband has two wives and she is the first wife, works outside and reportedly massages her husband's back when she returns home. The male guide, only twenty-five years old, also has two wives, one working outside and the other staying home to take care of the children and manage the household, and this pattern is quite common. Even so, due to open-mindedness, many men still seek relationships outside, so the two wives must work together to keep an eye on the husband. How wonderful it is for women to be born in China, practicing monogamy, with higher social status! The guide envied us thusly. Unbeknownst to her, at the border between Sichuan and Tibet in China, the male-to-female ratio is 5:1, so a polyandrous system where several brothers share one wife is common. Comparatively, too much or too little of anything isn't good.
Both guides hail from the Golden Triangle region in northern Thailand bordering Yunnan, being the third generation descendants of remnants of the Kuomintang army. Only these descendants of the Golden Triangle remnants can speak both Chinese and Thai. Those abandoned Kuomintang troops, like motherless children, couldn't return home and had no place to stand in a foreign land, could only lease land in the Golden Triangle, a lawless area, to grow drugs to survive. Children couldn't attend school, adults had nothing to eat or wear, even lacked housing, and survived in dire poverty. They lived in makeshift huts, borrowed food from local Thais, and led primitive lives. Visiting the Golden Triangle, the tools resembling those from the Stone Age and the emaciated children beside the huts made us shed tears involuntarily. A couplet at the exhibition site depicted the tragedy even more vividly: "No home anywhere, yet home everywhere; hard years every year, yet passing through." To gain recognition and obtain Thai nationality, they stopped growing drugs. They let teenagers carry guns to fight for the Thai army, earning blood sacrifices and finally securing Thai nationality and land for their offspring. After decades of development, today's Golden Triangle has become a bustling town. However, most residents there are Chinese.
Thailand is rich in resources, as they say, mountains yield treasures (gems), the earth yields snakes (venomous snakes), and rivers yield fish (crocodiles). We deeply experienced this. Are gems abundant? Just look at the walls of the Grand Palace. Crocodiles? In the Ratcha Zoo, crocodiles pile up densely in the river, more crowded than pigs in pigpens. Hence, we bought many crocodile wallets and belts in Thailand. Snakes? We didn't see them in the wild, nor dared to, but saw plenty in snake farms. According to the guide, a regular venomous snake bite can kill within days, an Australian tiger snake bite within three minutes, and a Thai bamboo leaf snake bite within less than two minutes. Therefore, Thai snake venom is several times more expensive than gold and treats diseases using the principle of fighting poison with poison, effective for stopping bleeding, detoxifying, and beautification. Snake bile clears liver heat and improves vision. According to the Thai guide, if bitten by a snake, if the wound is flat with a row of teeth marks, it's harmless, but if the wound shows two fang marks, it's a venomous snake bite. You need to quickly make a cross cut, burn it with a lighter, or tie it with a cloth strip, neither too tight nor too loose, loosening every twenty minutes, then rush to the hospital. Venomous snakes have strong vitality, surviving without eating for two to three years. Thai snakes mate for 36 hours continuously and lay eggs for two years afterward, leading many to believe that snake whip has invigorating effects.
During the few days in Thailand, traffic often jammed, so wherever we went, we had to act ahead of time. The frequent traffic jams were mainly due to Bangkok being both the capital and a tourist city with a large influx of outsiders. Also, their lifestyle contributes to it. Thai people have a slow-paced life, starting work at 10:30 am and finishing at 3 pm, with a half-hour snack break in between. So Thai people are poor, but despite being poor, they enjoy excellent welfare benefits. Education and healthcare are free, medical treatment and schooling cost nothing, and in old age, one can stay in a nursing home with a monthly allowance of 1,000 baht. Therefore, during our seven days in Thailand, we didn't see a single beggar or homeless person. This gave me a very good impression of Thailand. I've always believed that if people are compared to eggs, it doesn't matter if the eggs vary in size, what matters is having a protective layer underneath. If social security is inadequate, many small eggs at the bottom are broken and scattered everywhere, making the sight at the bottom unbearable. Too many broken eggs are detrimental to society. Thus, ensuring eggs aren't broken is more important than ensuring equality among eggs. What is a harmonious society? The rich are joyfully rich, the poor contentedly poor, the rich don't bully the poor, and the poor don't hate the rich. That's a harmonious society. Society shouldn't fear the smell of fine wine, but rather the bones of starvation. Providing a baseline and reliance for the vulnerable can prevent many desperate acts.
With such a thin foundation, Thailand can still provide guarantees, why not others? Where do all the welfare costs in Thailand come from? All stem from tourism. The prosperity of tourism brings flourishing temple incense offerings, and temples use donation revenues for many public welfare projects, and many schools are funded by temples. In this thriving tourism industry, ladyboys play an indispensable role. They sacrifice themselves to benefit the country, benefiting the elderly and majority of the young population. Therefore, Thailand's ladyboys thrive, and their existence holds positive significance.