Miscellaneous Talks about Japan
Column: Travelogue Added Time: December 7, 2010, 20:17:20 Source: Admin Clicks: 30
This trip to Japan for tourism was not something I was particularly interested in. Because among so many countries in the world, Chinese people are most familiar with Japan. Other countries like Nepal, Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand, etc., although they are also our neighbors, when it comes to specifics, people know little about them, such as Thailand being a polygamy system, the royal family massacre in Nepal in 2001, which we know very little about. However, when it comes to Japan, it can be said that everyone knows, from the elderly to children. Even the most remote and uneducated people in China know this country and can casually mention words related to Japanese culture such as kimono, Mount Fuji, cherry blossoms, etc. All of this is also due to the war. A famous person once said, we think of our enemies more times in a day than we think of our loved ones. A person may forget the favors he has received after some time, or he may not. But where he has been beaten up, he may never forget even if he wants to. People's memory of humiliation far exceeds their thoughts of glory.
Perhaps it is precisely because we have been beaten that we have firmly remembered the "little Japanese," this country with an area of only 380,000 square kilometers (about the size of Yunnan Province), and a population of only 128 million. This small country, not only do we remember it well, but almost all countries and regions in Asia have deep impressions of it. Because not only us but many other countries have been invaded by Japan. In Thailand, ordinary people curse at Japanese people, and in the Kwai River area, Japanese tour groups still dare not go there because the locals start throwing raw eggs at Japanese people when they see them. South Korea, talking about North Korea is contentious, but when it comes to the Japanese, it's hatred-filled. Malaysia and Singapore, basically every Asian region I've been to hates Japan. If there were no invasions and wars, Japan would be the pride and representative of Easterners, but because of the war, everything changed taste. Their abilities, strength, excellence, everything has become something else, under the gaze of hatred, everything loses its original color.
Take one person, call him ghost or dwarf, but if he can beat everyone around him, and no matter how much hatred the people around him feel, they have no power to move a finger against him, no matter what, this person should be very strong and powerful. And when you knock him down, he can quickly get up again and become strong. This person has many things worth learning from. Just because of this point, I think I should take a look. After removing the lens of hatred, see what the real, objective Japan is like.
To make it easier for everyone to read, I divided the content into several small sections, specifically including cherry blossoms, kimonos, geishas, Mount Fuji, mixed bathing, duck stores, ronins, personalities, suicides, Japanese bachelors, Yamato, aging, ODA. Each section can stand alone and can be read randomly.
Cherry Blossoms
We happened to arrive during the cherry blossom season, and everywhere were large patches of cherry blossoms like snow and clouds, truly beautiful. Originally, I thought cherry blossoms should be like pear flowers and apricot flowers, all elegant beauty, just that people give them cultural significance, so they appear graceful. After really seeing them, I realized my idea was wrong. The beauty of cherry blossoms does not lie in single-petaled flowers or individual trees, but in the posture of their branches. When viewed as a whole forest or patch, it becomes a landscape, having both the grace of women and the grandeur of men. This is the beauty of cherry blossoms. The blooming period of cherry blossoms is extremely short, only about a week, but in Japan, they can be seen everywhere, whether in cities or in the countryside. Not necessarily in large forests or patches, but each cherry blossom reminds you that this is Japan's national flower, like a mark, very prominent, very unique, and has become an inseparable part of the complete impression. Seeing cherry blossoms, you immediately associate them with Japan, as if cherry blossoms elsewhere are taken from Japan. Actually, Japan's cherry blossoms were transplanted from China in the eighth century, but the child raised by others has become theirs, and has little to do with you. Linking a country with a beautiful flower makes people unconsciously feel that this country is as elegant and beautiful as this flower, and leaves a better impression. After seeing Japan's cherry blossoms, I feel that a country really needs a plant representing itself to leave a good and profound impression. Cherry blossoms are everywhere in Japan, and they are not all wild. Japan has specialized institutions studying and promoting cherry blossoms. It is said that cherry blossoms come in over thirty types of pink and over twenty types of white.
Apart from cherry blossoms being distinctive, Japan's climate, culture, clothing, terrain, and appearance are very similar to China's. Walking on the streets, you don't feel strange because the characters are similar to those in China, so you can basically guess the meaning of the shop signs on the street. For example: Mahjong = Sparrow, Doll Shop = Human Form Store, Firecrackers = Flower Fire, Washroom = Hand Wash, Stamp = Cut Hand, etc., too many to list. Below, I will talk about things different from China that represent Japanese culture, such as geisha, Mount Fuji, mixed baths, suicide, and kimonos, etc.
Kimono
The kimono is from the Tang Dynasty of China, also introduced from China. We have already abandoned this style, evolving into the sleek and representative cheongsam. Who would have thought that something we discarded took root and flourished in another place, lasting for thousands of years, becoming a symbol of others and also a symbol of beauty. From East to West, I have seen many fashion shows, but none of them could compare to the kimono, making me have a strong impulse to buy a kimono right away and wear it myself, bowing and walking gracefully. If it weren't for the high price of kimonos, I would definitely buy several. However, Japan has high prices, and the price of kimonos is even higher. Even native Japanese say kimonos are expensive because a decent kimono costs tens of thousands of RMB, and the highest can reach millions. The tour guide said he once saw a kimono on display priced at one million dollars, and it was marked as sold. Therefore, in Japan, apart from geishas and historical and cultural cities like Kyoto where a few people still wear kimonos, it's hard to see them elsewhere. However, every Japanese woman has a few opportunities in her life to wear a kimono, and these occasions are always very formal ceremonies, like the coming-of-age ceremony held on January 8th every year, where people who turn twenty must participate and wear formal traditional attire, and the principal and district head will give speeches at school; also during weddings and Shinto rituals, kimonos must be worn. The craftsmanship of making kimonos is very meticulous, requiring study at specialized schools, and the way of wearing them is also strict, one rule being that the left lapel must cover the right lapel, absolutely not the other way around (because the right lapel covering the left is how dead people are dressed), and wearing a kimono is very troublesome, with several layers inside and out, needing help from several people to put it on. Also, after putting on a kimono, the collar is raised backward, and a bow reveals a lot of the neck, so women wearing kimonos must powder and makeup their necks. It is said that before, the beauty of a woman was not judged by her face, but by her neck, just like we used to judge by foot size. Moreover, unmarried women and married women wear different kimonos, with unmarried women having longer sleeves reaching down to the calves, and married women having shorter sleeves. The distinction between unmarried and married women exists in many places and eras, like ancient Chinese women tying their hair up, Indian women applying vermilion dots on their foreheads, etc. What I find most interesting about kimonos is the pillow-like object on their waists. I originally thought it was for decoration, but it turns out to be very practical. It is the Japanese woman's obi, also a long pocket, where all valuable items and treasures are stored. Practical and aesthetically pleasing, it's a win-win. Compared to kimonos, our representative clothing, the cheongsam, is also beautiful, making the wearer's posture graceful, revealing curves, simple yet beautiful. However, it suits thin people, and fat people wearing it looks terrible. Kimonos, on the other hand, are loose and fit both thin and fat people because the Tang Dynasty valued fullness as beauty, like Yang Guifei. The requirement for kimonos is not curves but flatness, needing to be flat both front and back, without protruding chests or buttocks. Women wearing kimonos look gentle and beautiful because they cannot make big movements or take large steps, so apart from geishas, few people wear them daily.
Geisha
Mentioning geishas touches on Japan's soft spot. Just like a person, no matter how strong, has his weak points, Japan's blood and tears, Japan's hardships, are embodied in geishas. Many literary works describe this aspect, so I won't elaborate here. Let me talk about the status of modern geishas. Geisha is one of the representatives of Japanese culture, but many ordinary people misunderstand geishas. In fact, geishas are not prostitutes; they sell art, not themselves. The art of geisha refers to the necessity of having true talent and skills, impressing people with their artistry, thus becoming a popular geisha is not easy. Modern geishas are now few, mostly daughters following their mothers' professions, having elders in their families who once engaged in this profession. Being a geisha today is actually very tough. Starting at ten years old, they become maiko, learning tea ceremony, calligraphy, instruments, dance, etiquette, etc. They cannot wear ordinary clothes but must wear kimonos and wooden sandals. Their hairstyles must be specially done, usually lasting a week without washing their hair. While sleeping, they cannot use pillows but need a narrow, hard wooden support under their necks to prevent their hair from touching the bed and getting messy. From drumming to playing the shamisen, singing folk songs to ancient melodies, dancing modern dances to classical dances. Additionally, students often practice outdoors in the cold until their fingers bleed and their voices are hoarse. Tea ceremony, serving alcohol, and walking, sitting postures, and speech are indispensable courses. They usually have only two days off per month and often suffer from sleep deprivation due to working late. They are not allowed to call friends or watch TV, always obeying their elders' commands, having no personal time or privacy. Usually, all aspects of a geisha's life are taken care of by the geisha house, and trivial tasks are served by apprentice geishas. Almost all geishas endure torment from madams and bullying from senior geishas during their training, and apprentices are not allowed any resistance, which can also be considered a form of training. Apprentice geishas become official geishas after a changing-collars ceremony at age eighteen. Official geishas, after long and rigorous training, can win guests' admiration even if they are not outstanding in appearance due to their talents and demeanor. No wonder there is a saying among geishas: As long as three strings remain, there will be no worry about food. Geisha performances are generally charged by time. In the past, incense was used to measure time, burning one stick counted as one session, and the fee for one session was called one flower. Now it is calculated by the hour. Geishas earn high incomes, charging approximately 30,000 yen per hour (about 210 RMB), and can accompany guests. After training, geishas mainly interact with political elites and celebrities, but contrary to the general understanding of Chinese people, geishas are not prostitutes. They only entertain guests in conversation and do not sell themselves. However, due to frequent interactions, it's inevitable that someone may fall in love. If multiple admirers exist simultaneously, bidding occurs. The madam sets a price, and whoever can afford it can hold a ceremony with her. The female invites her sisters, and the male invites his friends and competitors to attend the banquet. On the wedding night, they spend the night together, but after the first night, they go their separate ways. The geisha continues her work, and the man returns to his family life. Every July in Japan, the most popular geisha of the year is selected like in a beauty pageant, and her posters are displayed everywhere. Generally speaking, modern geishas are similar to modern celebrities but lack their freedom.
Mount Fuji
After discussing geishas, let's talk about another representative of Japanese culture, Mount Fuji. Just as we refer to the Yangtze River and Yellow River as mother rivers, the Japanese refer to Mount Fuji as Mount Fuiji or Divine Mountain. The Japanese visit Mount Fuji at least once in their lifetime. It is called Divine Mountain because it was discovered by monks spreading religion, giving it religious significance. Additionally, Mount Fuji is indeed peculiar. Most mountains are continuous and endless. If there's only one isolated peak, it's called a hill rather than a mountain. Around Mount Fuji, the surrounding mountains are black, while Mount Fuji (FUJI), the green mountain covered with snow, stands prominently among the black mountains, tall and striking, ethereal and transcendent. It appears exceptionally unique, like a white swan standing among black crows, creating a miraculous phenomenon. Another fascinating aspect is that this mountain is often hidden and rarely fully visible throughout the year. Due to its sacredness, environmentally conscious Japanese people protect it strongly. There are seasons for climbing and closing the mountain, and a climbing permit is required. Mount Fuji is an active volcano that underwent two major eruptions to form its current shape. Since it's a volcano, the surrounding hot springs are rich in organic elements, perfect for soaking.
Mixed Bathing
When mentioning hot springs, let's discuss their culture of mixed bathing, where families bathe together regardless of gender or age, with grandparents, parents, and children bathing together. This has been a long-standing tradition in Japan, but in the early 20th century, they felt other countries practiced gender-segregated bathing, while they seemed primitive and uncivilized, so in 1912, legislation was enacted to prohibit it. However, the power of tradition is strong, and some remote areas still maintain this habit today. Some hotels also offer mixed bathing but at different times, and mostly older people visit. In families, there's still the custom of daughters scrubbing their fathers' backs, regardless of the daughter's age. The hot springs in the hotel we stayed at, whether in the men's or women's pool, the cleaners are all women, so the tour guide instructed that if men see women cleaning inside, they shouldn't panic or feel shy, as it's a unique culture and custom in Japan.
Japanese people love soaking in hot springs, eating fish, and drinking tea. Due to their healthy living habits, Japanese people live long lives, with men averaging over 70 years and women over 80 years. There are 25,000 people over 100 years old, and most are women.
Japanese Women, Duck Stores, Ronins
Japanese women live long but have low social status. It's said that thirty years ago, women were not allowed to climb Mount Fuji, and Japanese men said women would defile this sacred mountain. Ironically, the first person to climb it wasn't a Japanese woman but a British female mountaineer. Japanese women's status was low in the past and remains so today. Disrespect towards women can be seen in certain details of life. In Japanese cuisine, there's a dish called 'female body tray,' where a woman's body serves as a plate to hold the food, placed on her naked body. Cream-covered egg particles are placed on the breasts, resembling beautiful bras, frogfish giving strength placed on the heart area, money flag aiding digestion placed on the abdomen, eel money enhancing sexual ability placed on the genital area. The woman lying there as a utensil must be a virgin, youthful, beautiful, and with a good figure. In the 21st century today, regions where women are used as tools in such disrespectful ways are exceedingly rare. Japanese women's low social status is closely related to economic income. Many Japanese women stop working after marriage, and fewer work after childbirth. Over ninety-nine percent of women stay home to raise children and do housework. Husbands returning home after work is considered a sign of incompetence, so Japanese men generally don't go home after work. They can drink and relax outside. Most husbands leave home at six in the morning and return at midnight. Japanese women are lonely and very infatuated with idols. It's said that audiences at celebrity concerts are all women. They especially adore the Korean actor Bae Yong-joon, whose advertisements cost hundreds of millions of RMB. When he came to Japan, tens of thousands of people welcomed him at the airport. Among his fans, a large portion are middle-aged women and white-haired grandmothers. It's said many grandmothers regard Bae Yong-joon as their son. One reason is loneliness, and another might be the imbalance in the Tokyo gender ratio (8:10). Duck stores are very popular in Japan. Shinjuku's Kabukicho is Japan's red-light district, offering unimaginable services. A bottle of wine costs 70,000-100,000 RMB, and it's said that from 6 PM to midnight, merely chatting companionship costs 200,000-300,000 RMB. Some male tourists heard that they could earn 200,000-300,000 RMB in a few hours and joked about staying to find jobs, scaring the tour guide into quickly collecting their passports. Duck store employees earn so much because they are a special group. The average Japanese person doesn't earn as much. Besides salaries, Japanese income mainly comes from bonuses, known as 'flower red.' Salaries are taxed and deducted for national insurance, pensions, provident funds (5% in Hong Kong, 6% for the general public in Japan, 9% for civil servants), leaving not much after deductions. For instance, newly employed university graduates have only a bit more than 10,000 RMB left after all deductions. Japanese men, when single, save nothing, spending whatever they earn, but after