How to choose cosmetics? How to solve the problems that occur during the perming process? This is what a professional designer should possess!
Purpose of Perming
1. Beauty and fashion to increase self-confidence
2. Increase hair volume
3. Change the direction of hair flow
4. Modify head shape and face shape
History of Perming
1. Started at the end of the Qing Dynasty, in 1934 German Kodas discovered that thioglycolic acid can break the disulfide bonds in hair, thus inventing cold perm solution (which requires an electric cap for heating).
2. In the 60s, the purity of cold perms improved so they no longer needed heat to curl.
3. In the 80s and 90s, ion perm, biochemical perm, ceramic perm, corn perm, electric rod perm, Barbie perm appeared... (Actually, the emergence of various perm names is just about changing terminology to rejuvenate the market and stimulate consumption.)
PS: Hair that frequently undergoes ion perms will be fully softened and difficult to curl, only ceramic perm can curl it again, then cold perm can be used.
Analysis of Chemicals
1. Classification of chemicals
Resistant, normal, damaged.
Choose appropriate perm chemicals based on different hair types.
No. 1 Agent (Softening Agent)
1. Thioglycolic acid; Alkaline substance, only it can break the strongest disulfide bonds in hair.
2. Ammonia; (Ammonium hydroxide) Alkaline substance that swells the hair and opens the cuticle allowing other components to enter.
3. Moisturizer; Maintains hair's humidity and luster, replenishes water and nutrients.
4. Fragrance; Masks the smell of ammonia.
5. Water
No. 2 Agent (Oxidizing Agent)
1. Bromine compound; Fixes chain bond structure.
2. Sodium peroxide; Reforms disulfide bonds, oxidizes chain bonds to fix the shape.
No. 3 Agent; Post-perm care, tightens the cuticle, removes residual alkaline components from the hair, restores hair luster.
Chemical Process of Perming
Through ammonia opening the cuticle, disulfide bonds are broken by thioglycolic acid, then using perm rods to change the chain structure, use bromine compounds and sodium peroxide in No. 2 agent to fix the shape. (Fission reaction - forcing displacement - recombination - position fixation)
Operating Procedure
1. Communication (Design); Understand if the customer has any history of perms or dyes.
2. Understand the floral pattern effect the customer likes.
3. Look at hairstyle books (similar effects).
Hair Type Analysis
1. Resistant hair type; Coarse, hard, black, shiny.
2. Healthy hair type; Smooth.
3. Generally damaged; Hair color between 5-6N.
4. Severely damaged; Hair color above 7N.
PS: Scalp also needs analysis, check for folliculitis or allergy history...
Washing Hair;
Use professional shampoo (cannot damage scalp as thioglycolic acid is a very irritating alkaline component).
Do not massage.
Time should not be too long.
Do not use conditioner.
Trimming Hair; Layers should preferably be even or gradually increasing.
Techniques
1. Wet rolling method; Apply rods when hair is wet, then apply chemicals.
2. Chemical rolling method; Apply chemicals first, then rods. (Foil perm)
(Disadvantages; Unequal time, inconsistent curls.)
1. Apply chemicals; Hair should not be too dry or too wet, apply evenly to each section.
2. Unroll rods to 2-3 circles towards the roots until they form a circle.
3. Time; Healthy hair 10-20 minutes
Fine soft hair 10-15 minutes
Damaged hair 5-10 minutes
Rinsing; (Do not unroll rods) Water temperature should not be too high, then use a towel to absorb moisture before applying No. 2 agent (time is 10 minutes).
Rinse; Gently pat with hands, do not pull or tangle, do not use shampoo, rinse with warm water while applying conditioner until clean.
PS: General hair type; Unroll rods after rinsing.
Damaged hair type; Rinse first, then unroll rods.
Water flow should not be too fast otherwise it may scatter the floral pattern.
Styling
1. First use a towel to gently pat dry.
2. Then use a hairdryer (with a hood) to dry.
Reasons for Over-perming
1. Poor hair quality
2. Too long processing time
3. Too high temperature or prolonged heating time
4. Incorrect chemical selection
5. Too much chemical applied
Cosmetics Selection Based on Different Skin Types
1. Normal skin: Good skin texture, wide range of choices. Use less oily cosmetics in summer, focus on moisturizing and hydration in winter. For other seasons, you can use nourishing water and moisturizing creams. When caring for the skin, you can use whitening or vitamin supplements, along with external layer protection.
2. Dry skin: Dry and sensitive, supplement more oil and moisture, choose highly nutritious products with high oil content, which provide hydration and moisturization. Use mild cleansers, moisturizing creams with higher oil content, and hydrating lotions. Focus on sun protection, moisturization, and hydration in summer, and nutrition and hydration in winter. Use protective isolation to prevent loss of internal moisture and nutrients. During care, you can use soothing and anti-sensitive masks and nourishing masks.
3. Oily skin: Produces a lot of oil, adaptable, supplement more water, choose cosmetics with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, oil control, and pore-tightening properties. Select cleansing lotions with good cleaning performance, fine-grained scrubs, pore-tightening toners, moisturizing creams or therapeutic cosmetics. During care, you can use hot masks, Chinese herbal masks, bleaching and fruit acid masks, considering anti-inflammatory, whitening, and pore-tightening effects.
4. Combination skin: Choose differently based on different parts of the skin. It inherently combines oily and dry characteristics, so select mild cleansers, neutral cleansers, and non-irritating cleansers. In summer, use astringent toners or refreshing toners for the T-zone, and in winter, use skincare products with more water than oil. Add protective isolation during care, and add anti-inflammatory or pore-tightening toners or creams for the T-zone, and nourishing and moisturizing cosmetics for other areas. You can use Chinese herbal anti-sensitive masks, hot and cold masks, nourishing masks, or fruit acid hydration and replenishment masks.
5. Problematic skin: Choose targeted skincare or functional products based on the skin's issues. Prevent sensitivity, choose non-irritating products, improve skin immune function and pigment function. Suitable year-round targeted cosmetics, protective isolation, choose masks according to problems such as Chinese herbal masks, hot masks, fruit acid anti-inflammatory masks, or neutral skin masks, focusing on hydration, moisturization, whitening, and anti-aging. You can add some detoxification procedures, gentle massage.
Three. Choosing Cosmetics Based on Age
1. Babyhood: Contains no nutritional components, more moisturizing, purely natural.
2. Teenagers: Cleansing, moisturizing, protection.
3. Adolescence: Cleansing, oil control, hydration, pore tightening.
4. 25~35 years old: Hydration, moisturization, sun protection, sensitization prevention, nutrition, protective isolation, more repair at night.
5. After 35 years old: Hydration, cosmetics with high oil content, promote metabolism, supplement nutrition, protective isolation, nighttime repair.
6. After 45 years old: Cleansing, massage oil massage, promote cell regeneration, focus on hydration, oil, nutrition, and repair.
Related Articles: How to solve the problems that occur during the perming process? How to solve the problems that occur during the perming process? How to solve the problems that occur during the perming process?