How to choose cosmetics? How to solve problems that occur during the process of perming? This is something a professional designer should possess!
Jiangsu Hairdressing Training School [http://www.jsainisi.org] Purpose of Perming
1. Aesthetic and fashionable, boosting self-confidence
2. Increase hair volume
3. Change the direction of hair flow
4. Modify head shape and face shape
History of Perming
1. Started at the end of the Qing Dynasty, in 1934 German Kodas discovered that thioglycolic acid could break the disulfide bonds in hair, thus inventing cold perm solution (requires electric cap heating)
2. In the 60s, the purity of cold perm improved so much that heating was no longer needed to achieve curls.
3. In the 80s and 90s, ion perm, biochemical perm, ceramic perm, corn perm, electric rod perm, Barbie perm appeared... (Actually, various perm names are just new terms introduced into the market to stimulate consumption.)
PS: Hair that frequently undergoes ion perm becomes fully softened, making it difficult to curl, requiring ceramic perm to achieve curls and then using cold perm to curl again. Jiangsu Hairdressing Training School [http://www.jsainisi.org].
Analyzing Chemical Solutions
1. Classification of chemical solutions:
Resistant, normal, damaged.
Select appropriate perm solutions based on different hair types.
Agent No. 1 (Softening Agent):
1. Thioglycolic acid; Alkaline substance that can only cut the strongest disulfide bonds in hair.
2. Ammonia; (Ammonium hydroxide) Alkaline substance that swells the hair, opens the cuticle allowing other components to enter.
3. Moisturizing agent; Maintains the humidity and luster of the hair, replenishing moisture and nutrients.
4. Fragrance; Masks the smell of ammonia.
5. Water.
Agent No. 2 (Oxidizing Agent):
1. Brominating agent; Fixes chain bond structure.
2. Sodium peroxide; Reconstructs disulfide bonds, oxidizes and fixes the chain structure.
3. Agent No. 3; Post-perm care, closes the cuticle, removes residual alkaline components from the hair, restores hair luster.
Chemical Process During Perm:
Through ammonia opening the cuticle, breaking the disulfide bonds with thioglycolic acid, changing the chain structure with perm rods, using bromine and sodium peroxide in Agent No. 2 to fix the shape. (Fission reaction - forcing displacement - recombination - position fixation)
Operation Process:
1. Communication (Design); Understand if the customer has a history of perms or dyes.
2. Understand the customer's preferred curl pattern effect.
3. Look at hairstyle books (similar effects).
Analyze Hair Type:
1. Resistant hair type; Coarse, hard, black, shiny
2. Healthy hair type; Smooth
3. Moderately damaged; Hair color between 5-6N
4. Severely damaged; Hair color above 7N.
PS: The scalp also needs analysis for folliculitis, allergy history...
Washing Hair:
Use professional shampoo (should not damage the scalp as thioglycolic acid is a very irritating alkaline component).
Do not massage.
Time should not be too long.
Do not apply conditioner.
Trimming Hair: Layers should ideally be equal or gradually increasing.
Technique:
1. Wet roll method; Apply rods when hair is wet, then apply solution.
2. Solution roll method; Apply solution first, then rods. (Foil perm)
(Disadvantages: Unequal time, uneven curls)
Applying Solution:
Hair should not be too dry or too wet, apply evenly to each section.
1. Unroll to 2-3 circles and push towards the roots to form loops.
2. Time: Healthy hair 10-20 minutes
Fine soft hair 10-15 minutes
Damaged hair 5-10 minutes
Rinsing: (Do not unroll rods) Water temperature should not be too high, then use a towel to absorb water before applying Agent No. 2 (time is 10 minutes).
Rinse: Gently pat with hands, do not pull, do not use shampoo. Warm water rinse while applying conditioner until clean.
PS: For general hair type, unroll rods after rinsing.
For damaged hair type, rinse before unrolling rods.
Water flow should not be too fast otherwise it will scatter the curl pattern.
Styling:
1. Use a towel to gently pat dry.
2. Then use a hairdryer (with a nozzle) to dry.
Reasons for Over-perming:
1. Poor hair quality
2. Too long application time
3. Too high temperature or prolonged heating time
4. Incorrect choice of solution
5. Too much solution
Choosing Cosmetics Based on Different Skin Types:
Different types of skin require different cosmetics.
1. Normal Skin: Good skin texture, wide range of choices. Use less oily cosmetics in summer, focus on moisturizing and hydration in winter, and use nourishing water and moisturizing milk in other seasons. When caring for the skin, you can use vitamin supplements and protect the outer layer of the skin.
2. Dry Skin: Dry and sensitive, need more oil and hydration. Choose highly nutritious and oily products that provide moisturizing and hydration. Use mild cleansers, high-oil massage creams or oils, and hydrating creams. Focus on sun protection, moisturization, and hydration in summer, and nutritional hydration and isolation protection in winter to prevent loss of internal moisture and nutrients. Use soothing and anti-sensitive masks and nourishing masks during care.
3. Oily Skin: Produces a lot of oil, strong adaptability, needs more hydration, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, oil control, and pore-tightening products. Choose good cleansing facial cleansers, fine-grained exfoliating scrubs, pore-tightening toners, moisturizing creams, or treatment cosmetics. During care, use hot compresses, Chinese herbal masks, whitening, and fruit acid masks. Consider anti-inflammatory, whitening, and pore-tightening effects.
4. Combination Skin: Choose differently based on different parts of the skin. It combines the characteristics of oily and dry skin. Choose mild facial cleansers, neutral facial cleansers, or non-irritating ones. Use astringent toners in summer or refreshing toners for the T-zone. In winter, use more hydrating than oily skincare products. During care, add some anti-inflammatory or pore-tightening toners or creams to the T-zone, and use nourishing and hydrating cosmetics on other areas. You can use Chinese herbal anti-sensitive masks, cold-hot masks, nutritional masks, or fruit acid hydrating masks.
5. Problematic Skin: Choose targeted skincare or functional products based on skin issues. Prevent sensitivity, avoid irritation, enhance skin immunity and pigmentation functions. Use targeted cosmetics all year round, and isolate protection. Masks can be chosen according to the problem, such as Chinese herbal masks, hot masks, fruit acid anti-inflammatory masks, or neutral skin masks. Focus on hydration, nourishment, whitening, and anti-aging, and add some detoxification procedures with light massages.
Three. Choosing Cosmetics by Age:
1. Baby period: Contains no nutritional components, focuses on moisturizing, purely natural.
2. Youth: Cleansing, moisturizing, protection.
3. Adolescence: Cleansing, oil control, hydration, pore tightening.
4. Ages 25-35: Hydration, moisturizing, sun protection, preventing sensitivity, nutrition, isolation protection, more repair at night.
5. After age 35: Hydration, high-oil content cosmetics, promoting metabolism, supplementing nutrition, isolation protection, evening repair.
6. After age 45: Cleansing, massaging with massage oil, promoting cell regeneration, focusing on hydration, oil, nutrition, and repair.
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