Casual Talk about Japan
Column: Travelogue Added Time: December 7, 2010, 20:17:20 Source: Admin Clicks: 30
This trip to Japan was not something I was particularly interested in. After all, among so many countries in the world, Chinese people are most familiar with Japan. Other countries like Nepal, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Thailand may be our neighbors, but when it comes down to specifics, there is much we don't know. For example, we know little about Thailand's polygamy system or Nepal's royal massacre in 2001. However, when it comes to Japan, even children and the elderly know a great deal. Even in the most remote and least educated parts of China, people know about this country and can easily mention cultural terms related to Japan such as kimonos, Mount Fuji, and cherry blossoms. This awareness has also been influenced by war. A famous person once said that we think of our enemies more times in a day than we do our loved ones. Perhaps someone who has received kindness might forget over time, but if they have been brutally beaten, they will never forget. People remember humiliation far more vividly than glory.
Perhaps because we were beaten, we have firmly remembered the "little Japanese," a country with only 380,000 square kilometers (about the size of Yunnan Province) and a population of just 128 million. This small country is not only deeply etched in our memories but also leaves an impression on almost every country and region in Asia. They invaded too many countries, so it wasn’t just us; many places feel the same way. In Thailand, for instance, locals curse at the sight of Japanese people. In the Kanchanaburi area of Thailand, Japanese tour groups still dare not go because the locals throw raw eggs at them upon sight. South Korea feels resentment towards North Korea, but when it comes to Japan, their hatred is visceral. Malaysia and Singapore share similar sentiments. In fact, in most Asian regions I’ve visited, there is widespread resentment towards Japan. Without aggression and war, Japan could have been the pride and representative of Eastern culture, but due to the war, everything changed. Their capabilities, strength, and excellence have become tainted under the gaze of hatred, losing their original colors.
If a person is called a devil or a dwarf, but he can beat everyone around him, and despite their hatred, they lack the ability to retaliate, then no matter how you look at it, this person must be very strong and capable. Moreover, after being knocked down, he can quickly rise again and become powerful. There’s much to learn from such a person. For this reason alone, I believe I should take a look, removing the lens of hatred to see what real, objective Japan looks like.
To make it easier for everyone to read, I've divided the content into several smaller sections, including cherry blossoms, kimonos, geishas, Mount Fuji, mixed bathing, duck shops, ronins, personality, suicide, Japanese bachelors, Yamato, aging, and ODA (Official Development Assistance). Each section can stand independently, and you can jump around freely while reading.
Cherry Blossoms
We arrived during the cherry blossom season, and everywhere was filled with clouds of cherry blossoms, truly breathtakingly beautiful. I originally thought cherry blossoms would resemble pear or apricot blossoms, elegant and understated, their beauty imbued with cultural significance. But after seeing them, I realized my perception was wrong. The beauty of cherry blossoms doesn't lie in single-petaled flowers or individual trees, but rather in the graceful posture of their branches. Seen collectively in groves or clusters, they form a picturesque scene—graceful like a woman and grand like a man. This is the beauty of cherry blossoms. Cherry blossoms have a very short blooming period, lasting only about a week, but in Japan, they are ubiquitous, whether in cities or in the countryside. They don’t necessarily grow in vast forests but serve as a reminder wherever they appear. As the national flower of Japan, they are prominent and unique, becoming an inseparable part of the overall impression of Japan. Seeing cherry blossoms immediately brings Japan to mind, as if they belong exclusively to Japan. Interestingly, cherry blossoms were transplanted from China in the 8th century, but now they are considered distinctly Japanese, having little connection to their origin. Linking a country with a beautiful flower makes the country seem equally elegant and beautiful, improving impressions. Observing Japan's cherry blossoms made me realize that every country needs a plant that represents it, leaving a beautiful and profound impression. Cherry blossoms are everywhere in Japan, though they aren't all wild. Japan has specialized institutions dedicated to researching and promoting cherry blossoms, reportedly with over thirty varieties of pink and twenty of white.
Besides cherry blossoms, Japan's climate, culture, clothing, terrain, and landscape are very similar to China's. Walking on the streets, you won't feel unfamiliar because the characters used in writing are quite close to Chinese, allowing you to guess the meaning of shop signs fairly accurately. For example: 麻雀 = Mahjong, 人形店 = Doll Shop, 花火 = Fireworks, 手洗 = Restroom, 切手 = Stamp, etc., countless examples exist. Below, I will discuss some aspects of Japanese culture different from China, such as geishas, Mount Fuji, mixed baths, suicide, and kimonos.
Kimono
The kimono originated from Tang Dynasty China and was also imported from there. We have long abandoned this style, evolving it into the sleek and representative cheongsam. Unexpectedly, what we discarded took root and flourished elsewhere, continuing for thousands of years, becoming a symbol of another culture and a representation of beauty. From East to West, I've seen many fashion shows, yet none compare to the kimono in evoking a strong desire to buy one and wear it gracefully. If not for the high price of kimonos, I would surely own several. However, prices in Japan are generally high, and kimonos are even higher. Even native Japanese say kimonos are expensive because a decent one costs tens of thousands of RMB, while high-end ones can reach millions. Our guide mentioned seeing a kimono priced at one million USD in an exhibition, marked as sold. Thus, in Japan, apart from geishas and historically significant cities like Kyoto, few people wear kimonos daily. Nevertheless, every Japanese woman gets opportunities to wear kimonos during important ceremonies in her lifetime, such as the Coming-of-Age Day ceremony held on January 8th each year, where those turning 20 must participate and dress formally. School principals and district leaders give speeches at these events. Additionally, kimonos are worn during weddings and Shinto rituals. The craftsmanship of making kimonos is highly intricate, requiring specialized education, and wearing them follows strict rules. One rule is that the left side must cover the right, never the reverse (since the right covering the left signifies death). Wearing a kimono involves multiple layers and requires assistance from several people. Furthermore, when wearing a kimono, the collar is raised backward, exposing the neck upon bowing. Therefore, women must apply makeup to their necks. It's said that in the past, a woman's beauty was judged by her neck, similar to how foot size was valued in old China. Unmarried and married women wear different kimonos; unmarried women have longer sleeves reaching down to their calves, while married women have shorter sleeves. Distinctions between unmarried and married women have existed in various cultures and eras, such as Chinese women tying their hair up or Indian women marking their foreheads with vermilion dots. What I find interesting about kimonos is the pillow-like object tied at the waist, playing a crucial role in its subtlety, modesty, and beauty. I initially thought it was purely decorative, but it turns out to be practical—it serves as a sash and a long pocket, storing valuables. Combining functionality with aesthetics, it achieves a perfect balance. Compared to kimonos, our representative cheongsam is also beautiful, enhancing posture with curves, simple yet elegant, but suits only slim figures. Kimonos, on the other hand, fit both thin and stout bodies since the Tang Dynasty valued full-figured beauty, like Yang Guifei. The requirement for kimonos isn't curves but flatness, needing smooth fronts and backs without protruding chests or hips. Women wearing kimonos appear gentle and beautiful because large movements and strides are impossible in them, leading to limited everyday use except for geishas.
Geisha
Mentioning geishas touches on Japan's soft spot. Just like individuals, even the strongest nations have their vulnerabilities. Japan's tears and sufferings are embodied in geishas, described in many artistic works, which I won't elaborate on here. Instead, I'll discuss the modern status of geishas. Geishas represent Japanese culture, but many misconceptions exist about them. Geishas are not prostitutes; they sell art, not themselves. To become a respected geisha requires genuine talent and skills, thus making it no easy feat. Today's geishas are akin to inheritors of Peking Opera's Mei Lanfang style or pandas—a rare historical legacy gradually fading, requiring preservation. Modern geishas are few, mostly following family traditions, with elders previously involved in this profession. Being a geisha today is arduous, starting at ten years old as dance apprentices, learning tea ceremony, calligraphy, musical instruments, dancing, etiquette, and more. They cannot wear ordinary clothes but must wear kimonos and geta sandals, with hairstyles specially arranged to last a week without washing. During this period, they sleep without pillows, using narrow, hard wooden supports to keep their hair from touching the bed. From drumming to playing the shamisen, singing modern to ancient tunes, performing contemporary to classical dances, students often practice outdoors in the cold until their fingers bleed and voices are hoarse. Tea ceremony, pouring sake, walking manners, sitting postures, and speech are essential courses. Typically, geishas have only two days off per month and often suffer from insufficient sleep due to late-night work, feeling tired and unwell. They are forbidden to call friends or watch TV, always obeying elders' orders without personal time or privacy. Almost all aspects of a geisha's life are managed by the okiya (geisha house), with trivial tasks handled by apprentice maids. Most geishas endure hardships from madams and senior geishas during their training, and any resistance is strictly prohibited, serving as a form of discipline. Apprentice geishas graduate at 18 with a ceremony to change their obi belts, becoming official geishas. Formal geishas undergo rigorous long-term training, excelling through talent and grace. No wonder a common saying among geishas is: "As long as there are three strings left, there will always be food." Geisha performances are usually charged by time. In the past, incense burning measured time, with one stick representing one performance. Now, hours are counted. Geishas earn high incomes, charging approximately 30,000 yen per hour (around 210 RMB), accompanying guests socially. Contrary to common Chinese perceptions, geishas are not prostitutes—they entertain through conversation and company without selling themselves. Due to frequent interactions, some may develop affections, leading to bidding wars if multiple suitors arise. The highest bidder wins the auction, followed by a formal ceremony inviting the geisha's sisters and the suitor's friends and rivals. After the first night, they part ways, the geisha returning to her profession and the suitor resuming his normal life. Annually in July, Japan selects the most popular geisha akin to a beauty pageant, with posters displayed throughout the country. In general, modern geishas resemble celebrities but enjoy less freedom.
Mount Fuji
After discussing geishas, let's talk about another symbol of Japanese culture: Mount Fuji. Just as we refer to the Yangtze and Yellow Rivers as mother rivers, the Japanese call Mount Fuji Fuji-san or divine mountain. Every Japanese person aims to visit Mount Fuji at least once in their lifetime. It is named divine because it was discovered by monks, holding religious significance, and because of its unique appearance. Most mountains are continuous ranges, but Mount Fuji stands alone, towering amidst black peaks, covered in snow, distinct and majestic. Its presence is striking, like a white swan among crows. Additionally, it mysteriously appears and disappears, visible for only a portion of the year. Because of its sacredness, environmentally conscious Japanese people cherish it greatly. There are seasons for climbing and closing the mountain, requiring permits for ascent. Originally a live volcano, Mount Fuji underwent two major eruptions, shaping its current form. The surrounding hot springs, rich in organic elements due to volcanic activity, are ideal for soaking.
Mixed Bathing
When talking about hot springs, let's address the Japanese tradition of mixed bathing, where families bathe together regardless of age or gender, including grandparents and parents. This has been a long-standing tradition in Japan, but early in the 20th century, they felt embarrassed compared to other countries practicing gender segregation, viewing their customs as primitive. Consequently, legislation prohibiting mixed bathing was enacted in 1912. However, traditional practices persist in some remote areas today. Some hotels offer mixed bathing facilities but operate on a time-sharing basis, primarily attracting older patrons. Within families, daughters assisting fathers with backwashing remains customary, irrespective of age. At our hotel, both male and female pools were cleaned by female staff. Hence, our guide advised that if men encountered women cleaning inside, they should remain calm and respectful, acknowledging this unique cultural custom.
Japanese love soaking in hot springs, eating fish, and drinking tea due to their healthy lifestyle habits, contributing to their longevity. The average male lifespan is over 70 years, while females live beyond 80, with over 25,000 centenarians, predominantly women.
Japanese Women, Duck Shops, Ronins
Japanese women have a long life expectancy but low social status. Until about thirty years ago, women were not allowed to climb Mount Fuji, with Japanese men claiming women would defile the sacred mountain. Ironically, the first person to summit Mount Fuji was not a Japanese woman but a British female mountaineer. Historically and currently, Japanese women hold low social positions. Disrespect towards women is evident in certain details of daily life. For instance, in Japanese cuisine, there's a dish called "female body platter" where a woman's naked body serves as a plate for food. Decorative cream balls placed on the breasts resemble bras, frog meat believed to enhance strength is placed on the heart, flag money aiding digestion on the abdomen, and eel money enhancing sexual ability on the genitalia. The woman serving as a platter must be a virgin, youthful, and attractive. In the 21st century, it's rare to see women treated as tools in this manner. The low social standing of Japanese women correlates with economic factors; many women stop working after marriage and fewer return to work after childbirth. Over 99% of women focus solely on homemaking and child-rearing. Meanwhile, husbands are discouraged from returning home promptly after work, often socializing outside instead. Most husbands leave home at six in the morning and return at midnight. Japanese women experience loneliness and idolize celebrities intensely, especially Korean actor Bae Yong-joon. Thousands greeted him at the airport during his visits, with a significant portion being middle-aged women and elderly grandmothers who view him as their son. The imbalance in Tokyo's gender ratio (8:10) exacerbates this phenomenon. Duck shops, prevalent in Japan, are located in red-light districts like Kabukicho in Shinjuku, offering services unimaginable to outsiders. A bottle of wine costs 7,000 to 10,000 RMB, and companionship from six p.m. to midnight costs upwards of 200,000 to 300,000 RMB. Some male tourists joked about staying to work, prompting the guide to quickly collect their passports. High-income duck hosts belong to a special group, as regular Japanese incomes are not as extravagant. Besides wages, bonuses (called "flower red") constitute a significant portion of income. Taxes, national insurance, pensions, and housing funds (Hong Kong deducts 5%, Japan 6% for regular citizens and 9% for civil servants) leave minimal remaining income. For instance, newly-employed university graduates retain only about 10,000 RMB after deductions. Japanese men typically save nothing when single, spending whatever they earn, but begin saving after marriage when all earnings are handed over to wives. The average household savings in Japan amount to 100,000 USD, peaking in the mid-1980s when the stock market reached nearly 40,000 points, now at just over 10,000.
Japan exhibits little wealth disparity, with most being middle-class. Wealthy individuals comprise 20% of the population, and there are no beggars, but ronins (homeless individuals) exist, often due to bankruptcy or family disputes. Despite homelessness, they maintain relatively neat appearances.
Japanese Personality
The Japanese are a tidy and clean-loving people, maintaining hygienic environments. However, infrastructure isn't significantly better than in China. A fellow traveler remarked that Japan hasn't changed much since his visit decades ago. A bottle of water that cost 200 yen back then now costs 120 yen. Although differences exist, consider the advancements in China over the past two to three decades—our living standards have improved dramatically. Comparing developments, the speed of domestic progress is astonishing, appropriately described as rapid. While our hardware develops swiftly, software improvements lag behind, particularly in education and cultural refinement, which require time. Over a hundred years ago, when literacy was a privilege for the wealthy in China, Japan had already achieved elementary education even in remote areas like Ryukyu. An old Chinese saying goes: "Deep waters make no sound, shallow waters splash loudly." People with substance tend to be humble and practical. Japanese, with high educational attainment, embody this trait, rarely flaunting their achievements despite being the world's second-largest economy in the 1980s and maintaining global economic prominence today. Unlike Americans' pride or British arrogance, the Japanese are predominantly polite and courteous. For instance, asking directions despite language barriers, they patiently gesture until understood without showing impatience. Encountering traffic jams en route to Mount Fuji, we grew anxious, but they remained orderly and silent, no one honking, truly impressive. Their simplicity extends to avoiding extravagance, with compact and functional daily items and infrastructure. Public restrooms, though small, feature foldable baby-changing tables for convenience. Toilet paper is usually single-layer recycled paper, unlike our thicker, whiter versions marketed as "100% virgin pulp." The Japanese dispose