The Hetao region is a specific geographic concept that began to take shape in the mid-Ming Dynasty. Records indicate that the original Hetao referred to an area stretching from Hequ in Shanxi in the east to Ningxia in the west, bounded by the Yellow River on the west, north, and east sides, and reaching southward to the "bianqiang" (also known as the Great Wall or "bianshao"). During the middle and late Ming Dynasty, most of the Mongolian population of the Erdos tribe grazed in this area. In the Qing Dynasty, it became the grazing land for the seven banners of the Yikezhao League (primarily consisting of the Erdos tribe). Since the early Qing, due to changes in the course of the Yellow River, some easily accessible sections appeared along its banks. The so-called "Houtao" region was carved out from the ancient Hetao area because of the displacement of tributaries of this section of the Yellow River. After the establishment of the Republic of China, the Hetao region gradually came under the same administrative system as the inland areas, and the name "Hetao" was restored. The Hetao region is mainly inhabited by Han, Mongolian, Hui, and other ethnic groups. Its unique geographical location and multi-ethnic integration have formed a very infectious local culture, where the clothing customs of each ethnic group are colorful and full of charm.
1. Diverse Changes in Han Nationality Clothing
From the late Qing Dynasty to the Republican era, the spring, summer, and autumn attire of Han residents in the Hetao region consisted of homemade Chinese-style clothes and pants. The fabric was mostly coarse cloth with a width of 40 centimeters transported from inland areas, also known as old cloth. Mechanically woven fabrics were expensive and came in two types: plain weave and twill weave, which only a few wealthy families could afford. Commoners often exchanged grain for white coarse cloth and dyed it black or blue using purchased dyes; some used pot soot for self-dyeing. Men's clothing was mostly black and blue, while women's clothing was predominantly red, green, or patterned. Except for merchants in towns and wealthy farmers in rural areas who paid attention to the style of their clothing, most people dressed rather plainly. Some families even wore cotton jackets as summer wear after removing the wool or cotton inside during the summer.
Traditional Han clothing has now become rare. The top garment is a front-opening stand-collar shirt or jacket, worn as a single layer in summer, a padded version in spring and autumn, and a quilted one in winter. Pants are deep-crotch wide-waist trousers with a red cloth belt.
Both men and women liked to wear red waistbands, also called "main waist." Children often wore belly bands. Historical records state: "The borderlands get cold early and winds are strong, with unpredictable weather throughout the four seasons. The waist and abdomen are particularly susceptible to cold, hence the origin of this custom (the main waist). When wrapped tightly, it makes the whole body more resistant to cold. Those who live here long-term have become accustomed to it, while people from inland areas consider it a strange custom."
Rural people had the habit of covering their heads with white towels, commonly called "sheep's stomach handkerchiefs." Both men and women wore them, but the methods differed. Covering the head with these handkerchiefs helped protect against wind in spring, sun in summer, and mosquitoes in autumn.
In old times, the shoes worn by Han people included solidly stitched shoes, cow-nose shoes, and felt shoes (commonly known as "mao ga dun"). At that time, wearing cow-nose shoes was fashionable. This type of shoe has two faces and resembles a cow's nose, hence the name. People with relatively comfortable lives wore camel-saddle boots in winter, characterized by a raised front resembling a camel's hump.
During the winter, men mostly wore sheepskin or goat skin clothes and pants. Fewer women wore leather pants, but leather jackets were not uncommon. These jackets had no outer coverings and were commonly known as "white edge" leather coats. Extremely poor people, lacking seasonal clothing changes, wore leather coats all year round, leading to the following rhymes in society: "Wear fur inside in winter, outside in summer, and use it as a blanket at night"; "Wear it during the day, use it as a blanket at night, and keep the fur outside when it rains." Wearing felt boots and hats made walking like a clumsy bear. This was a true depiction of Han clothing life at that time.
Women had various hairstyles, adorned with hairpins, earrings, necklaces, and rings. Married women twisted their hair into buns, such as the "grabbing bun" or "butterfly bun," while unmarried women braided one or two braids, all keeping bangs (commonly called horse mane). Despite this, married women and girls could be distinguished at a glance. During the Republican era, short hair became popular, known as the "cut hairdo," favored by girls and married women alike, becoming a fashion trend. Women liked to wear earrings, bracelets, and other jewelry, often tying red or green ribbons in their hair. Elderly women liked to hang small needle cases embroidered with patterns of birds, flowers, fish, and insects on their belts, calling them "needle sticks" (needle cases). Male children kept bangs in front, called "protect the forehead," and a tuft of hair at the back of the head, called "uncle hair" or "long life hair." Boys usually shaved their heads after adolescence.
In the early days of liberation, the Han clothing trend was: "A sea of blue, a red belt, and sturdy-soled shoes." Subsequently, corduroy appeared, and velvet clothing gradually became fashionable. At that time, people looked for partners based on dowry requirements, including phrases like "corduroy, velvet, seahorse velvet, goats and sheep follow." In the 1960s, people pursued "corduroy and velvet floral tweed, wool sweaters and blue cardigans."
In the 1970s, military uniforms and caps became popular for a while, with green becoming people's favorite color. Later, with the development of the commodity economy, fabric patterns became diverse, varieties complete, clothing styles novel, and dressing gradually more refined. What used to be "one outfit for three seasons, patched when torn" has now become everyone having several outfits, changing twice or thrice a day. Inside, there are undershirts and sweaters, and outside, coats; windproof jackets in windy weather, raincoats in rainy weather. People rarely wear cotton fabrics anymore, turning instead to "polyester" (mostly white or police blue), "polycotton" (mostly gray), "polyester" (mostly black or gray), and wool materials. The quality has gradually shifted from low-grade to high-grade, and clothing production from manual sewing to sewing machines, with more colors and updated styles. Men's clothing often features Zhongshan suits, while women's clothing frequently includes collared garments. Main waistbands have been replaced by vests, and traditional Chinese clothing is rarely seen except by newlywed women.
In the 1980s, people favored leather jackets, mountaineering clothes, matching sets (same color tops and bottoms), bell-bottom pants, and jeans.
After the reform and opening up, people started wearing suits, ties, and leather shoes. "If you want blue, all blue, walking like water pushing a boat; if you want gray, all gray, walking like pigeons flying." Later, double-breasted wool coats, windbreakers, and suits for spring and autumn became popular. Urban girls favored tight pants and skirts. People's clothing transitioned from simple to vibrant, with fabrics being mostly mid-to-high-end fashionable varieties. Middle-aged and young women liked permed hair, rings, necklaces, earrings, and high heels. Middle-aged and young men paid attention to hairstyles, rarely wearing hats.
Entering the 21st century, people became even more particular about their attire. Many emphasized the high quality and trendy styles of their clothes, with casual wear becoming popular for a time. Service industries mostly wore distinctive uniforms, and skirts became the year-round preference and pursuit of middle-aged and young women. With the warming climate, wool and fleece clothing became thinner, and denim clothing evolved from a single blue color to multiple colors. Brand-name clothing stores can be seen everywhere on the streets, with harmonious combinations of clothing styles and accessories. Hair dyeing and perming have become common, and leisure, fashion, openness, and non-mainstream trends have become the themes of urban and rural residents' clothing.
2. Colorful Mongolian Clothing
"Mongol" is the self-designation of the Mongols, meaning "eternal fire." The Mongols originated from a tribe around the Erguna River during the Tang Dynasty, approximately 7 centuries B.C. After the collapse of the Uyghur Khaganate in 840 A.D., most of this tribe migrated westward, with some descendants eventually settling in the Hetao region.
The Mongols are known as the "nation on horseback." Due to regional and tribal differences, Mongolian clothing varies significantly.
Robes, belts, jewelry, and boots are essential components of Mongolian attire.
Mongolian robes are loved by both men and women of all ages, developed uniquely over a long history of nomadic life. The Mongols are renowned for their loose robes and broad sashes. They wear padded robes in spring and autumn, single-layer robes in summer, and quilted or leather robes in winter. Their bright colors vividly reflect the Mongols' passionate, fierce, and open character. Before the Republic era, Linhe belonged to Mongolian pastoral lands where Mongols lived long-term. On important festivals, both men and women enjoyed wearing Mongolian robes. The robes featured wide collars, large sleeves, higher collars, right-side fastenings, and decorative borders on the collar, cuffs, and edges. There were differences in style and color between men's and women's robes. Men preferred blue and brown, while women favored red, green, and purple. Lamas wore red and yellow, avoiding black. The robes were spacious and undivided below, providing wind and cold protection while herding horses. Besides robes, both sexes wore riding jackets, vests, sheepskin coats, and knee-length shirts. The fabric for ordinary families was mostly cotton, while wealthier ones used silk.
Belts are indispensable to Mongolian attire, typically made of cotton or silk, ranging from three to four meters in length, with colors coordinating with the robe. Men tightened their robes with belts, making them shorter for convenience while riding and appearing agile and handsome. On the right side of the belt hung a Mongolian knife, varying in length from over 30 centimeters to just over 10 centimeters. Knife sheaths were made of wood or copper, decorated with silver or gold, engraved with patterns, and exquisitely crafted. Sheaths usually contained iron chopsticks for dining and were attached with metal chains made of gold or silver. Women pulled down their robes when tying their belts to show a slim, graceful figure.
Wearing Mongolian hats and jewelry is a Mongolian tradition. Men liked flat-topped Mongolian hats with turned-up edges, often made of fox fur or other animal skins, with a decorative ribbon hanging behind, known as "hat tail." Besides Mongolian hats, men also wore melon-shaped caps.
Jewelry can generally be divided into five types: headwear, neckwear, chest wear, waist wear, and handwear. Headwear is the most splendid part of Mongolian jewelry, including headscarves, hats, headbands, head circles, braid clamps, braid covers, hairpins, combs, earrings, and ear pendants. Unmarried women prefer a single braid, while wealthier ones adorn their heads with ornaments, often wrapping their heads in red and green silk. Married women braid two braids on either side or twist their hair into high buns, securing them with decorations shaped like hammers, commonly called "practice hammers" or "bound buns," adorned with gold, silver, or copper hairpieces, presenting an elegant appearance. On festive occasions, they wear jewelry made of coral, agate, jade, pearls, gold, and silver, depending on wealth. Wealthier individuals are more particular, often using coral, agate, jade, pearls, gold, and silver to create exquisite pieces known as "coral, agate, jade, emerald." Women also like to wear bracelets and rings.
Mongolians love to wear boots. Boots come in cloth and leather varieties. Cloth boots are often made of thick cloth or canvas, soft and lightweight; leather boots are made from cowhide, horsehide, or donkey hide, durable and waterproof, excellent for cold protection. Their styles roughly fall into three categories: upward-curled tips, semi-curled tips, and flat soles, suitable for desert, arid grasslands, and humid grasslands respectively. Previously, within the region, except for a few descendants of the Halhan tribe (from Outer Mongolia) who wore upward-curled, thick-soled "Halhan" boots, most wore native Mongolian boots. The seams on the boot shafts feature a green strip of thin leather, creating three lines, thus called "three eyebrows." Mongolian boots are meticulously crafted, with slightly curved tips fitting stirrups perfectly for easy horse riding. The exterior of the boot shafts often has embroidered or appliquéd intricate patterns, with lining fabric or felt inside. Winter boots are spacious, allowing for the addition of wool or felt socks for warmth.
Since the founding of New China, with continuous improvements in material and cultural living standards, Mongolian clothing has undergone significant changes. The Hetao region's Mongolian residential areas belong to agricultural and semi-agricultural and semi-pastoral regions. The practice of men and women wearing long robes and tall boots has gradually disappeared, and their clothing has become similar to that of the Han people. In areas with concentrated minorities, such as Wulatezhongqi and later stages in Bayannur City, urban residents mostly wear ethnic costumes during festivals and grand events, with varied colors and extremely fine textures, bright colors, while the elaborate headwear unsuitable for production activities has gradually faded away.
3. Extremely Refined Hui Nationality Clothing
At the beginning of the Republic era, many Hui residents migrated from Ningxia to settle in Linhe within the Hetao region. Most now reside in Qingfeng Village under the Dawn Office in Linhe District and the "Hui People's Village" in the western jurisdiction of the Liberation Office.
Hui clothing differs greatly between genders, manifesting as male and female attire, with significant distinctions between the two. Based on age, it forms infant, adult, and elderly clothing. Hui women's clothing divides into unmarried, married middle-aged, and married elderly attire.
The primary distinguishing mark of Hui clothing is on the head. Men favor white round caps. Round caps come in two types: flat-topped and six-sided. More refined individuals embellish their caps with exquisite embroidery. White caps relate to Hui lifestyle habits and occupational characteristics. Taking Linhe as an example, Hui people mostly engage in commerce, concentrated in the Qingfeng Street area operating restaurants and beef and mutton businesses, requiring cleanliness in their attire due to their professions. After death, cleanliness is paramount during funerals.
Besides wearing white caps, some Hui men also wrap their heads with white or yellow towels or cloth, commonly known as "turban Huis." It is said that Muhammad, in his early propagation of Islam, worshiped with a turban (worn by imams or religious leaders) wrapped around his head. Turbans are typically nine or twelve feet long. Wrapping involves many rules: the front should only reach the hairline, not covering the forehead, facilitating bowing during worship. One end of the turban is left dangling about an elbow's length behind, while the other end is pressed into the back of the turban after wrapping.
Hui women often wear veils, symbolizing "hidden beauty," aiming to cover hair, ears, and necks. Hui people view these as parts of feminine modesty that should be concealed. The veil custom is primarily influenced by Arab countries. The Arabian Peninsula experiences heavy sandstorms and limited water sources, making regular bathing difficult. To shield against sandstorms and maintain hygiene, women sewed scarves that covered their faces and protected their hair. Later, many Arab and Persian merchants brought this custom to China. Veils vary significantly; elderly women wear white, appearing clean and dignified; middle-aged women wear black, looking solemn and elegant; unmarried women wear green, appearing fresh and beautiful. Many married women also wear white or black brimmed round caps. Round caps come in two types: one made from bleached cloth, the other woven from white thread or black silk, often forming intricate geometric patterns. Hui elders favor white shirts with black vests (also called "waistcoats"). Elderly Hui women wear black or brown scarves in winter and white gauze scarves in summer, with a habit of tightening their trouser cuffs. Young women wear red, green, or blue scarves in winter and red, green, or yellow thin gauze scarves in summer. Hui women in mountainous areas enjoy wearing embroidered shoes and have the habit of piercing their ears and wearing earrings.
Hui clothing also varies strictly according to occupation: officials' clothing is white as silver, symbolizing the purity and sincerity of rituals; judicial officers wear black, signifying avoidance of yin and yang; holy kings wear emerald green, implying that green is granted by heaven, and mountains originally represent the color of vegetation, so green is considered the correct color, respected above all others; commoners wear earth yellow, representing the color of the earth; official clothing is indigo blue, indicating indigo as a mixed color. Officials wear short brown robes (a kind of ancient Han clothing, also called "shuhei"), all made of coarse cloth, with sleeves reaching the wrists and fronts extending to the knees; religious leaders (Ahongs, also called Ahongs or Ahengs) wear green clothing during worship.
After liberation, due to the cohabitation of Hui and Han people in the Hetao region, Hui clothing became largely similar to Han clothing. However, some men still like to wear white caps, and young women prefer to wear brightly colored silk scarves around their necks and colorful clothing. Elders favor wearing long coats, paying attention to the quality of the fabric, finely crafted, differing between winter and summer, showcasing the clean and dignified ethnic characteristics.
Domestic market development has only a 20-year history, but the market has grown rapidly. In the early 1980s, the annual domestic sales of down jackets were only hundreds of thousands of pieces, and now it has reached 60 million. Especially in recent years, competition among brands has intensified. According to statistics, currently, in key cities, the total sales of down jackets show increasing brand concentration. Bosideng Down Jacket accounts for 15.58% of total sales, and the top ten brands with considerable sales volume account for 40.13% of total down jacket sales. This indicates that the market is dominated by well-known brands of down jackets. With intensifying competition and successful market operations by strong brands, a group of low-cost brands competing solely for market share will be phased out of the small market, while well-known brands will occupy the dominant market position.
The 21st century marks an important stage for the reshuffling of the domestic trade down market.
Additionally, foreign brands have launched down jackets, down jackets, and joined the market competition. The entry of foreign brands into the