The surface texture and luster with a good tactile sensation from Roberto Cavalli is a highlight of the new season's menswear. Whether it be menswear or womenswear, sexiness is king. Renowned fashion critic Suzy Menkes joked: "In terms of sexiness, Gucci resembles cheese, Prada looks like chalk; Gucci is guerrillas, Prada is priests."
This time, the Milan and Paris "boxing ring" for the 2008 autumn-winter menswear collections was set up tighter than ever before. The Milan Menswear Week just ended on January 16th, and the Paris Menswear Week quickly followed on the 17th. Over ten days, the fashion crowd was dazzled and overwhelmed. Even so, the new rules of menswear were sorted out one by one.
Calm and eccentric mix-and-match
The new season's menswear shows a rare calmness and friendliness, but beneath this lies an undeniable mix-and-match style — a few spots of eccentric seasoning make men more sexy. Dries Van Noten used architectural clothing mixed with curved structures, formal wear harmoniously spliced with zip shorts, transparent hard mesh fabric blended with wool textiles, rugged tweed paired with elegant colors that are just right. Yohji Yamamoto’s mix-and-match is in shimmering fabrics with coarse tweed, smooth fabrics with pleating techniques. As for Givenchy, loose and tailored cuts, monochrome and stripes, various styles cleverly connect seamlessly. However, the "king of mix-and-match" among these belongs to Comme des Garçons. Designer Rei Kawakubo named the new series of menswear "Magic Moment Approaching," seemingly carelessly combining tartan shorts and tall hats with punk styling, as if casting a wonderful spell.
Unrestrained fur and plaids
Autumn and winter cannot do without fur, but menswear fur has always been restrained, adhering to the principle of "less is more." This season is no exception, only adding a touch of allure. Alexander McQueen had just returned from his tropical country India for inspiration, yet his runway show surprisingly presented a "Himalayan style" — cardigan sweaters adorned with silver-white edges, loose jackets resembling rolled-up curtains, vests and coats showing a torn effect under fur leopard patterns, creating snowman-like outfits that made people marvel at McQueen's mastery of technique, taste, and detail. Versace's leatherwear resembled full-bodied space materials, Burberry turned fur coats into slim-fitting images of aristocratic gentlemen, and Gucci's long fur collars let a strong Mongolian wind flow through. In this season's menswear, plaids made their brightest appearance ever, with almost all brands with a hippie feel using this classic pattern, whether it be scarves, shorts, or shirts. And Yohji Yamamoto even elevated plaids to the leading role, wrapping all the slim men entirely in plaid.