2 Main Technical Methods of Each Process
Tencel is a solvent-type cellulose fiber and the most classic green environmental protection fiber. Its environmental protection feature is that the raw material comes from wood, which can be naturally regenerated continuously. The wood is made into wood pulp, and the (NMO) spinning process is adopted. The wood pulp is dissolved in the ammonium oxide solvent for direct spinning. Its production is completely accomplished under physical action. The recycling rate of oxidized solvent is over 99%, which can be recycled. Moreover, Tencel products are biodegradable after use, so it is called the "green fiber of the 21st century." Besides having the good hygroscopicity, soft elegance, and comfort of ordinary viscose fibers, Tencel also overcomes the disadvantage of low strength, especially wet strength, of ordinary viscose fibers. Its strength is almost comparable to polyester. This article introduces the successful development experience of pearl fiber/Tencel 50/50, 14.8 tex compact yarn.
Tencel sliver
The specifications selected are 1.67 dtex×38 mm for pearl fiber and 1.4 dtex×38 mm for Lenzing's Tencel A100 model material.
1.2 Process Flow
2.2 Carding Process
Automatic winder → baling.
In the carding process, it is necessary to ensure the relative humidity of the surrounding environment, generally controlled between 60%~63%. The principle of "low speed, large distance, fast transfer" is adopted. It is necessary to reduce the speed of the needle roller and the cylinder, increase the distance between the cotton feeder and the needle roller, the distance between the cylinder and the cover plate, improve the line speed ratio of the cylinder and the needle roller, reduce the proportion of repeated combing of fibers, and minimize the damage to fibers as much as possible. In addition, since both Tencel and pearl fibers have a fiber length of 38mm and good neatness, the cotton feeder board is raised by 3 mm to increase the effective combing length and reduce fiber damage. Key process parameters in the carding process: cylinder speed 328 r/min, needle roller speed 779 r/min, cylinder-needle roller linear speed ratio 2.2:1, five-point distances between the cylinder and the cover plate are "0.25 mm, 0.23 mm, 0.23 mm, 0.23 mm, 0.25 mm", dry weight of the sliver at 20g/5m, and the number of sliver knots controlled within 8 particles/g.
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Pearl fiber is produced using high-tech methods during the spinning of cellulose fibers, where ultrafine pearl powder is added to the fibers to create functional cellulose fibers. Due to the even distribution of pearl particles inside and on the surface of the fibers, they possess both the beauty care functions of pearls and the moisture absorption, breathability, and wearing comfort of cellulose fibers. Pearl fiber is an advanced functional fiber with independent intellectual property rights and invention patents, and its manufacturer is Shanghai Hai Ban Li Kenuo Textile Technology Co., Ltd.
1 Process Plan and Flow
→ HSD-961 type drawing frame (two passes) → THFA423 suspended spindle roving machine → BS516 fine spinning machine → NO.21C type
Pearl fiber sliver
For processing pearl fiber and Tencel, the principle of "more loose, less beating, combing instead of beating, more collection, less dropping" should be followed in the opening and cleaning cotton process. The A002D disc picker secret should ensure uniform feeding, consistent density, no large cracks, and guarantee uniform picking. The blade of the beater extends 2 mm out of the rib, with a speed of 740 r/min; the A035B mixing and opening cotton machine should skip the porcupine beater at the tail end. The first parallel beater speed is 717 r/min, the second parallel beater speed is 838 r/min, FA106A comb needle beater speed is 480 r/min, A076E integrated beater speed is 800 r/min. Since Tencel fibers have a smooth surface, few curls, poor cohesion, and difficulty in forming rolls, we appropriately lower the integrated beater speed, reduce the distance between the beater and the feed roller to 10.5 mm, increase the fan speed to 1300 r/min, ensuring that the fiber bundle after combing is evenly adsorbed on the dust cage. To reduce edge breakage, a special 18 mm thick wooden dust cage pad was installed, changing the previous cotton roll width from 980 mm to 950 mm, eliminating the problem of rough edges. Regarding the defect of poor cohesion of Tencel fibers, a self-designed and installed spindle yarn rack was placed on the A076E type rolling machine. During the rolling process of Tencel, coarse yarns of the same variety were orderly added to prevent sticking and disorder during unwinding, providing assurance for the carding process, with relatively good results. Cotton roll dry weight is 420 g/m, and the unevenness rate of the cotton roll is controlled within 1.1%.
The blending plan for pearl fiber and Tencel (Tencel) fiber adopts a separate rolling and then drawing mix method.
2.1 Opening and Cleaning Cotton
A002D type picker → A035B type mixing and opening cotton machine → FA106A comb needle opening cotton machine → FA046 type vibrating cotton box feeder → A076E type single beater rolling machine → A186E type carding machine →
Both pearl fiber and Tencel (Tencel) fiber belong to regenerated cellulose fibers, but Tencel fiber is smooth. Therefore, an appropriate amount of antistatic agent and water is added to the Tencel, left to stand for 48 hours before feeding and rolling, making the moisture regain on the machine reach approximately 14%~15%. [1]
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