Two main process techniques
Tencel is a solvent-based cellulose fiber and the most classic green environmental protection fiber. Its environmental protection feature is that the raw material comes from wood, which can be naturally regenerated continuously. The wood is made into wood pulp, and the (NMO) spinning process is adopted to dissolve the wood pulp in ammonia oxide solvent for direct spinning. Its production is completely accomplished under physical action. The recovery rate of oxidized solvent is more than 99%, cotton elastic straight tribute, which can be recycled. Moreover, Tencel products can be bio-degraded after use, so it is called "the green fiber of the 21st century". In addition to having the good hygroscopicity, softness, and comfort of ordinary viscose fibers, Tencel also overcomes the disadvantage of low strength, especially wet strength, of ordinary viscose fibers, with strength almost comparable to polyester. This article introduces the successful development experience of pearl fiber/Tencel 50/50, 14.8 tex compact yarn.
Tencel sliver
Materials with specifications of 1.67 dtex × 38 mm for pearl fiber and Lenzing Tencel A100 model materials with specifications of 1.4 dtex × 38 mm are selected.
1.2 Process flow
2.2 Carding process
Automatic winder → baling.
The carding process must ensure the relative humidity of the surrounding environment, generally controlled between 60%~63%. The principle of "low speed, large spacing, fast transfer" is adopted. It is necessary to reduce the speed of the needle cylinder and the speed of the sawtooth cylinder, increase the distance between the feeding plate and the sawtooth cylinder, the distance between the sawtooth cylinder and the cover plate, improve the linear speed ratio between the sawtooth cylinder and the sawtooth cylinder, reduce the proportion of repeated combing of fibers, and minimize damage to the fibers; besides, because both Tencel and pearl fibers have a fiber length of 38mm and good neatness, they all adopt raising the feeding board by 3 mm, increasing the effective combing length, and reducing the injury to the fibers. Important process parameters for the carding process: Sawtooth cylinder speed 328 r/min, sawtooth roller speed 779 r/min, linear speed ratio between the sawtooth cylinder and the sawtooth roller 2.2:1, five-point spacing between the sawtooth cylinder and the cover plate "0.25 mm, 0.23 mm, 0.23 mm, 0.23 mm, 0.25 mm", dry weight of the sliver at 20g/5m, and the number of sliver knots controlled within 8 particles/g.
Pearl fiber is produced using high-tech methods, where ultra-fine pearl powder is added during the spinning of cellulose fibers to create functional cellulose fibers. The fiber has pearl beauty care functions due to the even distribution of pearl particles inside and on the surface, as well as the moisture absorption, breathability, and wearing comfort characteristics of cellulose fibers. Pearl fiber is an advanced functional fiber with independent intellectual property rights and invention patents, and its manufacturer is Shanghai Haiban Likeno Textile Technology Co., Ltd.
1 Process plan and flow
→ HSD-961 type drawing frame (second pass) → THFA423 suspended spindle roving machine → BS516 fine spinning machine → NO.21C type
Pearl fiber sliver
When processing pearl fiber and Tencel, the principle of "more looseness, less beating, combing instead of beating, more collection, less dropping" should be followed in the opening and cleaning cotton process. The A002D disc grabber must feed evenly, with uniform density and no large cracks, ensuring uniform grabbing. The blade of the hand extends 2 mm beyond the rib, with a speed of 740 r/min; the A035B mixing opener should skip the porcupine hand at the tail end, with the first parallel hand speed at 717 r/min, the second flat hand speed at 838 r/min, the FA106A comb needle hand speed at 480 r/min, and the A076E integrated hand speed at 800 r/min. Since Tencel fibers have smooth surfaces, fewer curls, and poor cohesion, making them difficult to roll, we appropriately lower the speed of the integrated hand, reduce the distance between the hand and the feeding roller to 10.5 mm, and increase the fan speed to 1300 r/min to ensure that the fiber bundles after combing are evenly adsorbed on the dust cage. To reduce edge breaks, a 18 mm thick wooden dust cage pad was specially installed, changing the cotton roll width from 980 mm to 950 mm, eliminating the occurrence of hairy edges. In response to the poor cohesion defect of Tencel fibers, we designed and installed a hanger spindle rack on the A076E type rolling machine, orderly adding the same variety of roving strips during the Tencel rolling process, preventing sticking and disorderly layer phenomena during unwinding, providing assurance for the carding process, with relatively good results. The dry weight of the cotton roll is 420 g/m, and the unevenness rate of the cotton roll is controlled within 1.1%.
The blending plan for pearl fiber and Tencel (Tencel) fiber adopts the method of separate rolling and then mixed drawing.
2.1 Opening and cleaning cotton
A002D type cotton grabber → A035B type mixing opener → FA106A comb needle opener → FA046 type vibrating cotton box feeder → A076E type single hand roller → A186E type carding machine →
Both pearl fiber and Tencel (Tencel) fiber belong to regenerated cellulose fibers, but Tencel fibers are smooth. Therefore, an appropriate amount of anti-static agent and water is added to the Tencel, left to stand for 48 hours before feeding and rolling, making the on-machine moisture regain reach approximately 14%~15%.[1]
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