Chassis maintenance is easily overlooked, and there are ways to deal with mechanical damage. If your car breaks down far away from a repair shop, it can be very troublesome. It's better to be prepared, so having a car means paying attention to its maintenance in normal times.
When it comes to car maintenance, chassis care is the easiest for drivers to overlook. However, the importance of good chassis maintenance becomes apparent during winter or slippery weather. In winter, you should thoroughly clean the chassis and apply rust-proof treatment for car maintenance. First, the chassis needs to be cleaned thoroughly. If there is too much mud on the chassis, it should be washed again with a degreaser to reveal its original "color". Only then can the rust-proofing process begin. At professional beauty shops, the car can be lifted onto a lift for chassis cleaning, wiping, and rust-proofing. During this process, it's important to wait until all the water on the chassis is completely dry before applying rust-proofing. When applying the treatment, ensure that the coating is sprayed evenly to form a long-lasting rust-proof layer. After the entire process is completed, let it air-dry naturally for 5-10 minutes to complete the rust-proofing of the chassis.
Even after professional chassis care, it doesn't mean everything is perfect. One common misconception is that people often wash their cars themselves, sometimes adding cleaning agents. Be sure not to use alkaline cleaning agents (such as laundry powder) to wash the body and chassis, as this will affect the rust-proofing effect and shorten the rust-proofing time.
It is recommended to go to a professional beauty shop for bottom plate care. There is a simple way to test the quality: after the rust-proofing treatment, if the bottom plate almost does not hold water droplets after being washed with high-pressure water, then it represents genuine care and can provide good rust-proof protection.
If a car encounters chassis mechanical damage in the wild or far from a repair location, depending on different fault situations, the following emergency methods can be used to drive the car to a place with repair conditions.
If the brake caliper leaks brake fluid or the caliper pipe is broken, a small pad made of iron sheet or copper sheet can be used at the caliper pipe joint to block the pipe, then tighten the screw, or flatten and curl the broken end to stop the leak, making the wheel ineffective for braking. However, this may cause single-side braking, so be cautious when driving.
If the master brake cylinder lacks brake fluid, alcohol or white wine can be used as a substitute, and in special cases, clear water can be used. If the brake piston cup swells, soak the swollen piston cup in hot water for 10-20 minutes to remove the oil components on the piston cup, allowing it to return to its original size.
If the clutch friction plate is scorched and slips, for less severely scorched friction plates, they can be used on the opposite side. For severe scorching, several layers of cotton cloth or canvas (with thickness consistent with the original friction plate) can be used, fixed by threading steel wire or iron wire through the holes in the steel plate. When driving, ensure smooth starts and quick gear changes.
If the tie rod ball joint is damaged, a screw similar in total length to the ball joint can be removed from the bumper or other places that do not affect driving, replacing the damaged ball joint. After installing the steering knuckle arm and nut, the exposed part of the screw can be riveted with a hammer. For three-axle cars, if any differential gear in the middle or rear axle is damaged, the transmission shaft and half-shaft of that axle can be removed to continue driving. If the front differential is damaged, the hub coupling disc can be removed to continue driving.
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