The busy Dasanba Street connects to the lively Cai草地 Street, and heading east, you quickly arrive at the Leal Senado Square. Originally called the Fountain Square, there used to be a globe in the middle of the fountain symbolizing Portugal's maritime expeditions. This area is filled with old buildings, and Macau residents love to celebrate various festivals and hold celebrations here. Not far from the Civic Affairs Bureau lies the legendary red-light district of old Macau: Hong Chuang Men Street and Fuk Long New Street. Rows of two-story houses with white walls, red windows, and red doors exude a unique charm, a style starkly different from the bustling thoroughfare just a hundred meters away. Since the Qing Dynasty, this area was rife with inns, brothels, gambling dens, and opium houses... a place of moral decay! Today, it has been completely transformed into a hub for numerous gourmet restaurants and specialty shops selling local delicacies.
The evil casinos... Last night, I ultimately couldn't afford a bowl of expensive sea tiger fins at Tan's Shark Fin Restaurant, and ended up eating Vietnamese noodle soup on the third floor to quell my hunger. Betting on big or small has risen to 300 yuan per round, which is quite daunting! Fortunately, I strictly controlled my gambling funds; otherwise, all the money would have vanished like water droplets into the ocean, leaving no trace.
The white building on the east side of the square has significant history: In 1569, Macao's first bishop founded the charitable institution known as the Holy House of Mercy, and this is its headquarters.
Dasanba is the most famous historical site in Macao. It is the original site of the St. Paul's Church built in 1580, which was later destroyed by a fire in 1835, leaving only the facade. Because its appearance resembles a traditional Chinese archway, it is also called the Dasanba Archway. The archway holds immense historical value, and the Macao government continues to offer free public access, demonstrating remarkable generosity!
On the south side of the square is Da Lu Ma Road... Also called Xin Lu Ma Road, its name is simple and easy to remember. Previously, foreigners gave it a long name: Avenida Almeida Ribeiro. Across the road is the Macao Leal Senado, now known as the Civic Affairs Bureau Building, constructed in 1584.
For lunch, we chose "A San Shark Fin" recommended by a domestic food guidebook. Genuine Cantonese cuisine with authentic flavors. Instead of ordering an expensive individual serving of shark fin, we opted for a common shark fin soup. Mixing the delicious soup with steamed rice is something worth recommending to everyone.
The outer layer of the egg tart is crispy and flaky, the filling rich and fragrant, releasing a delightful aroma that melts in your mouth, leaving a sweet taste lingering on your palate. Paired with a cup of Italian coffee, it feels wonderful!
Isn't this the "Fuxiao Tower" that frequently appeared during TV commercial breaks in Hong Kong in the 1980s? Its English name is "FAT SIU LAU," how amazing! At the time, I had a strong urge to go inside, but there were few takers among my companions. After checking some information upon returning, I felt even more regretful. Fuxiao Tower was established in 1903 and is the oldest Portuguese restaurant in Macau. Next time I visit Macau, I must try their traditional Shiqi roasted pigeon, Portuguese curry crabs, fried cod balls, signature spare rib rice, and sorbet desserts...
To be continued...
The next morning was unusually cold! Gathering our group, we set off towards the Macau Peninsula. Three hundred meters west of the Grand Lisboa on Da Lu Ma Road is a Lukfo Jewelry store. Thirty meters down the adjacent alley is the renowned Margaret's Tarts. Margaret is the former wife of Andrew, the grandfather of Macau's Portuguese-style egg tarts. After parting ways, she continued using the secret recipe for making these tarts. Eating a few piping hot egg tarts in the cold made me feel warm and satisfied.
I took a few photos of the street scene, but they didn't seem impressive enough! So I processed the following few photos slightly, deviating somewhat from what was actually seen.
In the center of the stone door on the lower level of the archway, there is an engraving of the Latin words "MATER DEI," meaning "Mother of God."
The church ruins also include many remnants of the ancient ground, as well as the main hall (underground crypt) of the Dasanba Church and the Jesus Hall.
The crazy taxi driver led us around the streets and alleys, bringing us near Dasanba. The distant view of Dasanba is much more beautiful than the close-up view. Generally, it’s normal to walk from a distance to get closer. But when I got out of the car, I saw the frail and thin side of Dasanba… Hehe, LBS is a tool rather than a model, the taxi driver was quite diligent!
Looking up, this church has four stories plus a pointed top. On the pointed top is a copper dove-shaped emblem, and each story has niches with copper statues of deities. Moreover, the eaves and columns are intricately carved stones, including many elements of Chinese culture.
Walking around to the back of the archway, we climbed the iron stairs to the second-floor viewing area. Looking out through the window on the wall: the stepped square in front of the archway is bustling with people all the way to Dasanba Street... One can imagine the clergy of the past overseeing the town and living leisurely from here.
Descending the steps, moving further away from Dasanba along Dasanba Street toward the Leal Senado Square on Da Lu Ma Road, the Dasanba Archway remained in sight for a long time without being obstructed, indicating that the planning of this district emphasized the visual landscape of the Dasanba Archway.
Just as I was about to pass through the archway, I suddenly saw a fashionable young couple shooting exterior scenes at the entrance. It seemed the man was speaking Japanese while the woman spoke Cantonese. Judging from their actions, they were likely professional models. Otherwise, how could they remain so naturally composed amidst constant photography from passing tourists?