2011 Driving in Jiangxi, Ganzhou

by xue94fwsh on 2012-02-27 09:27:59

Nanfeng, located north of Ganzhou City, is well-known for producing honey tangerines. Looking at old photographs can be very interesting as it makes history less dry and more vivid. It was drizzling, the air was fresh and moist, and there was a serene silence all around. Upon reviewing the city wall, fields and courtyards were scattered within its confines - the only word to describe it would be peaceful and leisurely! At the beginning of his term in Ganzhou, Chiang Ching-kuo vigorously promoted the Southern Jiangxi New Policy, proposing five major goals: "everyone has work to do, everyone has food to eat, everyone has clothes to wear, everyone has a house to live in, and everyone has books to read." His accomplishments are still remembered by the locals to this day. To be continued... The Yongjin Gate is majestic and impressive, serving as the iconic gate of the ancient city walls of Ganzhou. Since ancient times, Ganzhou has been known as the Iron City, aided by rivers making it easy to defend but difficult to attack! Due to time constraints, places like the Jianchun Gate and the ancient pontoon bridge further east could not be visited, so I returned through the arched city gate back into the city. Circling around the outer side of the city walls from the Bajing Pavilion Park, the walls appeared increasingly tall. Heading east along the base of the wall, there was the Yongjin Gate ahead. Along the way, I passed by the relatively small Ganzhou Port, where cruise ships depart for Tao Hua Island and the Wan'an Hydropower Station among other routes. The outer fortress of the Bajing Pavilion is an important defensive facility, densely packed with hidden soldier caves and shooting ports. Invading enemies who enter the fortress will inevitably face another encirclement and annihilation. After leaving Mr. Chiang's former residence, I continued walking on the ancient city wall's blue bricks. Outside the city wall was the riverbank, and occasionally peering out from the crenels provided different views. The ground was covered with lush short grass and moss, while reed branches swayed on top of the walls, creating a bleak atmosphere that made me feel melancholy. Avoiding the long National Day holiday, I embarked on my Jiangxi trip on October 7, 2011. Starting from the Qingping Expressway in Shenzhen, it was a total of 441 kilometers to the west entrance of Ganzhou, costing 180 yuan in tolls. As night fell as expected, the Yongjin Tower outside the Yongjin Gate was brightly lit. Coming here to taste authentic Southern Jiangxi cuisine allows one to better appreciate Ganzhou's long history and culture! Nanhelu Street in the southern part of the city is a food street. After having lunch at "Everyday is Spring Festival," the sightseeing journey began. Proceeding to Xijin Road, we encountered Xijin Gate, where hundreds of people paid their respects to a retired soldier who had been killed while apprehending a thief. The color tone and appearance of the city gate evoked deep feelings. Xijin Gate is part of the Northern Song Dynasty city wall, built during the Qing Xianfeng period to resist the Taiping Army. Ascending to the highest level of the Bajing Pavilion, looking out over the wide river surface shrouded in mist! The Zhang River and Gong River converge here to form the Gan River stretching a thousand miles before emptying into Poyang Lake. Xin Qiji's widely circulated poem ["Bodhisattva Mantra - Written on the Wall at Zao Kou in Jiangxi"] strongly expresses his frustration and anger over being unrecognized and unable to serve his country. "Below the lonely terrace flows the clear river water, how many tears have flowed through it? Looking northwest towards Chang'an, alas, there are countless mountains. Green mountains cannot be blocked, ultimately flowing eastward. As evening falls on the river, I am filled with sorrow, hearing partridges in the deep mountains." Beyond Xijin Gate lies Yugu Terrace on Helan Mountain, commemorating the famous patriotic poet, politician, and military strategist of the Southern Song Dynasty, Xin Qiji. Exiting from behind Yugu Terrace, passing through the small alleys between the bungalows up Tianlu Ridge, one can walk onto the Song Dynasty ancient city wall. Continuing along the wall leads to Chiang Ching-kuo's former residence. After returning from studying in the Soviet Union, Chiang Ching-kuo had significant differences in political views with Chiang Kai-shek. The elder arranged for him to serve as commissioner and security commander in Ganzhou for training. Young Chiang displayed great ability in Southern Jiangxi, achieving commendable political results! Moreover, he also made considerable achievements in the literary world: the avant-garde youths of the time went to Yan'an on the extreme left or Chongqing on the extreme right, while those advocating integrity and believing in the Three Principles of the People all came to Ganzhou. Most domestic ancient city walls were built after the Ming Dynasty, so Song Dynasty ancient city walls are quite rare! The city wall extends along the shoreline of the Zhang River, resembling a reclining dragon. Due to being obstructed by Helan Mountain, the view does not include the Gong River to the east. Jiangxi's abbreviation [Gan] integrates the characters Zhang and Gong. The location chosen by the young master for his residence could be considered one of the few feng shui treasures in Ganzhou City. A elegant Western-style building nestled in the dense forest, this is Chiang Ching-kuo's No. 1 Garden Pond official residence, where he lived with his wife and children from 1940 to 1945. In front of the old residence stands a magnolia tree planted by Mr. Chiang himself in 1941, which remains lush and leafy. The simple yet tasteful style of the building and the compact connecting corridor garden reflect the owner's efficient and pragmatic style. Ganzhou serves as the gateway to Southern Jiangxi, bordering Heyuan, Guangdong. Entering the urban area around noon, following online information, I drove directly to the section of Huancheng Road in Zhanggong District near the Seventh Middle School, reputed to have a famous stir-fried snail restaurant. Unfortunately, the information was incorrect, forcing me to find another target! Like many third-tier cities in China, Ganzhou's municipal funds are quite limited, and the appearance of the old city area leaves much to be desired. However, judging from the vehicle license plates [Gan B], the political status of this place should not be underestimated: Ruikin City under Ganzhou's jurisdiction, also known as the Red Capital, was once the temporary government seat of the Chinese Soviet Republic, hailed as the cradle of the Republic.