Vacheron Constantin website: 15 tips for buying Swiss watches in Hong Kong

"15 Tips for Buying a Watch" as a reference for consumers when purchasing a watch.

(1) Always buy a waterproof watch, including second-hand watches. The case must be well-sealed. Some thin cases, especially women's watches, many of which are 18K gold, are not waterproof. These watches usually have snap-on backs, and poorly sealed ones may even allow dust and fibers to enter the mechanism, requiring frequent maintenance in the future.

(2) Do not buy gold-plated or two-tone watches. Given the current high price of gold, the plating on watches is never substantial, rarely exceeding 10 micrometers, typically between 3-5 micrometers. This makes them prone to wear, leading to an unsightly appearance over time. Gold-plated crowns are especially prone to discoloration and rust. Ion-plated titanium gold watches might also have color inconsistencies.

(3) If you're buying a steel-cased watch with a steel bracelet, opt for solid-link bracelets. High-end brands all use solid-link bracelets, which feel sturdy and compact. Avoid "bobby pin" style connectors; instead, go for elastic steel tubes or screw rods that are less likely to come undone. A "butterfly clasp" with safety features would be ideal. The opening and closing mechanisms of metal bracelets affect both comfort and security, and these parts are often where problems occur later. A larger crown is also preferable for ease of operation.

(4) Generally speaking, fewer additional functions on a watch are better as this improves timekeeping performance. So if there’s no special need, choose a single-calendar watch over a double-calendar one. Many watches have month indicators that are mere decoration. Needle-type calendars and small seconds hands can be good choices, offering a classical elegance. Large window date displays (with separate tens and units digits) tend to malfunction more easily.

(5) Be cautious when buying watches with unusual case shapes. You cannot guarantee that their glass won't break in the future, and it can be difficult to find original replacements. Sapphire crystal glass on ultra-domed high-end watches, if available, can be very expensive. Flat round glass is easier to replace or substitute.

(6) It's not recommended to buy 18K white gold watches because most of these cases and bracelets appear "pale." They are rhodium-plated on the outermost layer, and once the plating wears off, they can look slightly yellowish. Such watches cannot be restored through polishing, and re-rhodium plating will be necessary after the plating wears off.

(7) Be careful with watches that have special types of leather straps, especially those with metal components at the ends enclosed within the strap (to give a bracelet-like feel or facilitate assembly), or those with specially cut ends. Leather straps, including crocodile skin, are consumables that need replacement every 3-4 years. Special type leather straps are non-generic and require original factory replacements, which can be quite expensive, especially for luxury brands.

(8) Watches with bracelet-style bands, also called integrated case bands, have bands welded onto the case. These bands are continuous without links and usually require cutting when shortening. Once shortened, they cannot be lengthened again, and any adjustments often require complex re-welding. Most of these are made from 18K gold material.

(9) Be cautious about buying ultra-thin and ultra-small watches. Whether mechanical or quartz, larger movements are generally better. For example, a 26mm diameter movement has superior overall timekeeping performance compared to a 20mm diameter movement (common in ladies' watches). Ultra-thin movements are also thinner, resulting in poorer timekeeping and reliability. Piaget's 9P2 serves as an example.

(10) Consider the future maintenance and repair of watches from small production runs or independent watchmakers, including all avant-garde and conceptual designs. If spare parts are unavailable, the watch will be difficult to repair. High-end watches are significant investments, just like cars.

(11) Women should try to buy quartz watches. The performance of mechanical women's watches is far inferior to men's, with shorter maintenance cycles. Women generally have less physical activity than men, so quartz watches dominate in brands like OMEGA and LONGINES due to their variety and beauty. Men who lack sufficient activity or have strict accuracy requirements should also consider quartz watches.

(12) Avoid automatic skeleton movements. Skeleton movements have low plate strength and poor support. Adding a heavy rotor increases stress on the gear train and clearance, leading to potential malfunctions. Therefore, manual winding skeleton movements are preferable, especially for thinner movements.

(13) Watches with screw-down or screwed-in backs generally offer better water resistance. If the watch has a snap-on back, nylon seals are better than rubber ones. However, snap-on structures can leave marks if improperly handled when opening the back.

(14) Ensure that ultra-thin and ultra-small quartz watches use easily obtainable battery models. Smaller and thinner batteries are more expensive and have shorter lifespans. When selecting quartz watches, always check the battery life specified in the manual. Two-handed watches often have longer-lasting batteries.

(15) Avoid oversized, thick, and heavy watches. Watches with cases exceeding 40mm in diameter, 14mm in thickness, and weighing over 200 grams can feel uncomfortable and cumbersome. Lighter and thinner watches are more comfortable. Unless specifically required, choose appropriately sized watches that are not too exaggerated. Comfort is key, just like shoes—only your feet know if they're comfortable.

There are many tips and opinions on watch selection, but the above 15 points are based on my 30 years of experience in the watch industry, offering practical advice. I hope consumers can learn from others' mistakes and make informed decisions. Everyone wants to buy a suitable and satisfying watch. While appearance and price range are subjective, everyone hopes for good value. Blindly pursuing brand names isn't necessary. Personalized research is key. Brands like BALMAIN, BALL, HAMILTON, FREDERIQUE CONSTANT, Maurice Lacroix, VULCAIN, BREITLING, and ORIS offer good value and craftsmanship.