The best tube opening should be sealed with adhesive and tied tightly 53

**Rongshida Washing Machine: Continuous Water Intake and No Washing - Maintenance Experience Summary**

If the water intake does not stop, it indicates that the water inlet valve is continuously open; if there is no washing, it suggests that the common contact point and normally open contact point of the water level switch are not connected, which means the fault lies in the water level switch. This judgment is made under the premise that the possibility of simultaneous failure of the water inlet valve, its circuit, and the water level switch is basically non-existent.

For electric fully automatic washing machines, the fault is caused by the contacts of the water level switch failing to transfer. For computer-controlled fully automatic washing machines, the fault occurs because the water level switch is not connected. Therefore, the inspection focus should be on the water level switch and its transmission system. Check whether the water pressure transmission system of the water level switch is abnormal or leaking air. Open the rear cover of the washing machine and check whether the two ends of the pressure hose are disconnected or leaking air. If the hose has fallen off, the water level will completely lose control. Reconnect it and secure it with fine wire, preferably sealing the hose opening with adhesive and tightening it. To check for leaks due to looseness at the connection, apply soapy water at the connection during water intake. If there is a leak, reinsert and tighten the hose. Carefully inspect the hose for small holes; if any exist, replace the hose. Check if the hose is bent or blocked; if so, straighten and clear it. If the pressure hose is intact, remove the hose and check if water flows out from the soft tube connector of the outer drum; if no water flows out, the gas chamber outlet of the outer drum is blocked, causing complete loss of water level control during water intake.

In washing machines used for many years, the gas chamber outlet at the bottom of the outer drum may be clogged with lint and dirt. If blockage is found, thoroughly clean the outer drum. The method is as follows: disassemble the top frame of the washing machine, remove the inner drum guard fixed inside the outer drum, then use a brush tied to a long stick to scrub the bottom of the inner and outer drums. After scrubbing, manually open the drain valve (push the drainage electromagnet to the closed state and fix it with rope), rinse the bottom of the inner and outer drums with a large amount of water, and thoroughly flush out the lint and dirt. Check if the switching of the water level switch contacts is normal. For electric fully automatic washing machines, after the water intake has clearly exceeded the selected water level, use a multimeter to test the continuity between the common contact and the normally closed contact of the water level switch. If it is a conductive path, the water level switch is faulty. For computer-controlled fully automatic washing machines, after the water intake has clearly exceeded the selected water level, use a multimeter to test the continuity between the two terminals of the selected water level of the water level switch. If it is an open circuit, the water level switch is defective. The condition of the water level switch can also be tested using the short-circuit method. When the water intake exceeds the selected water level, cut off the power, short-circuit the wiring terminal of the common contact and the normally open contact of the water level switch, then continue to power on and select the washing program. If the water intake continues without stopping but washing begins, this proves that the water level switch is damaged and has lost control over the water level. When the water level switch loses control due to abnormal contact switching, it should be replaced entirely if possible, as disassembling and repairing it is very challenging and difficult to seal properly. After replacing the new water level switch, a container can be used to add water to check if the water level meets the requirements. If there is a significant difference, adjust the water intake by regulating the screw. If you gently shake the water level switch after removing it and hear a collision sound inside, it indicates that the internal parts are damaged, and the water level switch should be replaced. Check if the rubber diaphragm or sealing clamp of the water level switch is leaking air. If there is no leakage in the water pressure transmission system of the water level switch, it can be disassembled for inspection. Keep the connection between the pressure hose and the air nozzle of the water level switch, immerse the water level switch in water, and blow air into the hose from the other end to pressurize it. If air leaks from the sealing clamp, press the leaking area with pliers or seal it with universal glue until no air leaks.

The edge of the rubber diaphragm inside the water level switch, which isolates and transmits air pressure, is extremely thin. Even a slight defect could cause air leakage. If you suspect a fault here, you can blow air into the gas chamber of the water level switch with your mouth. If you can hear the clicking sound of the moving spring inside the switch, the switch might still be good. However, slow air leakage from the rubber diaphragm often cannot be detected this way. If the contacts suddenly disconnect after some time of washing and the agitator stops rotating, it may be due to slow air leakage from the rubber diaphragm. Whether the rubber diaphragm of the water level switch is leaking air can also be checked using a U-shaped tube and a pressurized airbag. First, disassemble the water level switch, connect the rubber hose to the U-shaped tube, add water to the U-shaped tube, then press the airbag to pressurize it. When you hear a click from the water level switch, it indicates that the contacts have switched, and close the airbag knob. After 3-5 minutes, observe whether the water level in the U-shaped tube drops and the contacts reset. If the water level drops and the contacts reset, it indicates that the rubber diaphragm is leaking air. In actual repairs, if you do not have a U-shaped tube and pressurized airbag, you can detach the air hose, form it into a U-shape, fill it with clear water, and blow air into the open end of the hose until the switch contacts switch. Immediately pinch the blowing end to seal it. After a few minutes, observe whether the water level in the tube drops and causes the contacts to reset. If the water level drops and the contacts reset, it indicates that the rubber diaphragm is leaking air, and the water level switch should be replaced. Water level loss of control caused by air leakage in the water level switch and water pressure transmission system will only result in continuous water intake when the air leakage is severe (such as the detachment of the pressure hose). Under normal circumstances, minor air leakage will increase the water intake, but during the entire washing process, it may also cause intermittent washing and water intake, and water starting during dehydration, so air leakage faults should be promptly eliminated.

Source: http://blog.sina.com.cn/rsdxiyiji